yup
agree
the obvious adjustment (screw and locknut visible from above) is about mesh between the teeth on the sector and the teeth on the ballnut/hydraulic piston that runs up and down the worm screw as you turn the wheel.
however the worm screw that the steering column connects to sits...
also remember.. only believe the gauge when:-
1) all cylinders are firing
2) you can pull smoothly through the rpm from idle to your desired rpm
3) there are no rich or lean flat spots
if there is a flat spot the rpm before it gives a better indication on the gauge of the direction you are...
Yeah the chart assumes you are running petrol with no ethanol in it
i'd concentrate on moving idle up to average of about 13.7
aiming for 14 when i lift off the gas at speed
worry about the top end when you get the bottom end done
The stoichiometric number for e10 10% ethanol fuel is 14 to...
if they get stuck in the spindle a sharp tap with a hammer will ping em out.
that works for most all taper fit suspension parts
if they get stuck on the joint pull em off with a bearing puller
Dave
T5 out of an early S10 is not good enough
you need a world class unit really and one with quite a long input
and a good supply of 9.5 10 or 10.5 inch clutch plates
T5 out of a 2000-2004 mustang might be robust enough (long toploader type input)
Z spec racing T5 might be (short toploader...
yes. agree...... if the starter pinion teeth are wedged right into the root of the the ring gear teeth it can get a bit stuck
ideally that skirt on the pinion hits the flat side of the ring gear and stops the pinion ofver shooting, well before there is any real deflection of the pinion due to...
you get the same if the bar is not in the right position in respect to the rail.
push it right up to the chassis rail. add the spring clip and then move it slowly away until you see the spring clip ends sink into the grooves in the white nylon half moon bushes on that side.
if you don't get...
if the switch bolts to a metal dash
you don't need the ground tab, because it grounds through the screw in metal collar and the spiked metal tab that stops the switch body turning in the dash hole
this, i think you have acknowledged
if the switch bolts into a plastic insert in a dash pod...
Carb
headers
sort the ignition curve for modern fuel
new cap new rotor new leads new plugs properly gapped
clean bulkhead connector on the ignition side at least
clean earth straps
check battery clamps
make sure you see battery voltage at the input to the ballast
this alone can create...
I believe Australian engines did not get hit with with too many emissions requirements until later in the decade and in general were built off the original LA 318 specifications.
built in a new facility with an engaged workforce.
it will be closer to the book than not.
if the car is as...
yes
Unless you have access to stuff to do the job differently which is nigh on impossible today without unobtainable or maybe custom bearings, a pile of main caps and a dogged determination to find the right one
i was just illustrating that there are other ways
cap off a different block...
are you off the gas when changing?
come off completely see how you go and provided you are not free wheeling at 90 i.e you are somewhere in the 20 mph range all should be well.
Or come off to reduce engine rpm to where you think it should be for first, see how you go
OR
double declutch...
years ago in Australia
small country garages were issued with a main cap repair set by Chrysler Australia
and a special set of bearings that covered the normal oversizes plus a range with a couple of thou variation that came from the production line that "fixed up" bad tolerances, in...
or see if you can identify the trim/options
looks like you car could be "L" or "J" if yours is "J" whatever that means it at least had a 9 1/4 when it left the factory
if its an L and was a Europe assembled car we often got "special" equipment.. don't know why probably local...