Recent content by str12-340

No to 2.02 valves in a 318 bore. You might have to notch the block just to have it not hit and if you do get them in the shrouding would negate the value of the switch. I think you have a great set of heads for a street 318 just the way they are!

CORRECT!!!- give that man a prize... don't forget to put the rubber body plug in the bench seat hole, that's what the factory did.

If you find a source for the separator, could you post it here???

Kudos to @dust44d for doing his best to come to the rescue!!!

"I can change it on the ground" !!!!?????!!!!!!!

That is Mopar Collector's Guide (why I cancelled my subscription years ago). That is NOT Mopar Action, which was the most useful one of the bunch. Best tech information available for both mechanical stuff and restoration. Best info about useful parts sources.

I the dog's owner still alive (it isn't the dog's fault)? Paying for the damage?

That is how you adjust both axles from one side... adjustment from the side with the adjuster pushes against the button, which pushes against the end of the opposite axle.

Energy Suspension makes a bracket/insulator set. Uses the three factory bolt holes and adds a fourth (easy to do). You need the bar diameter to get the right insulator.

DMT sells Stainless ones!

"loud pipes save lives"

Steve - how hot did it get??? it's possible that you have air trapped in the block that just isn't making its way out. can you see the water circulating in the radiator? While it's cold you might crack the two block drains for a bit and then pour the coolant back in the radiator.

That guy really is on the wrong site...

Put the engine in the car with the intake and the carb with a paper gasket, and your air cleaner and then measure the clearance using a wad of putty, then figure out what will fit under the carb. None of this stuff is precision built to start with and your car and K-frame are now 50+ years old...

What are you putting the transmission in? Back in your Dakota or in an A-body?