Recent content by TurboGLH

That's because we're all victims of the forums best troll. There's no way a real person would keep coming back and saying this kind of ****.

If you're not great with electrical, do yourself a favor. Print out the under hood and dash wiring harness pages, biggest you can make them. Get a highlighter and going between the two, highlight everywhere that gets power through the fusible link. Don't forget the power after the ign switch...

You can try the 72 manual, hard to know exactly what the changes are, but it should be close enough for diag work if you're solid with electrical work. Service Manuals – MyMopar To follow up on your posts some. 1. Don't keep burning up fusible links, if you have to make a repair again...

That's a lot of interest Andy. Is there any interest on your end to doing a group buy? Everyone who's interested pays some (or all) up front?

Good catch, I was thinking of the Edelbrock high flow pump. Anybody use one of these water pumps? Edelbrock, PRW, CVF all sell the same closed back, cast iron impellor design with a volute housing.

Lots of vendors sell the same pump as milodon Edelbrock. CVF racing carries it on their ebay store for $49 Chrysler Mechanical Water Pump, High Volume Aluminum 318 340 360 - CVF Racing | eBay

I'd also be interested in a kit of parts or a PCB and BOM that I assemble myself. I have pretty bad voltage drop between the battery, ign switch and the VR currently. If you're interested in a low run of just PCBs or want to sell a dev. PCB let me know, I'll pay whatever a fair price is.

I'm interested in one with the battery Sense line vs sensing voltage via the ignition switch. Honestly, the amphenol is Overkill for me, I'd prefer pigtails and I can put a deustch connector on it, I use them all over the place in my harness

I'm running one now. Mine was missing the pilot in the bore that lets you get it started on the crank and aligned with the key. I had to unbolt the hub and toss it in the lathe. In addition, it's a duplicate of the original fluidamper, so it requires either a special crank pulley (march 10151)...

Is it a visual artifact from machining or do the saddles have a "W" shape to them like the SM heads? Any chance on a picture from the side of the saddle with a shaft in the head?

I agree on 100% on 3/4 sets. The last set, I'd have to disassemble them both to see. Having them side by side, they come in the same package with the exact same mix of hold downs, shims, and shafts. They even come with the same shitty pushrod length tool. I could be wrong, no doubt, this was 3...

Here's a link to all the SB rockers that SM sells: https://www.speedmaster79.com/engines-components/camshafts-valvetrain/rocker-arms?enginemake=Chrysler&family=Mopar-Small-Block The first set, 1.5 with steel hold downs, is also sold by PRW. I have a set of these from SM, and besides needing to...

To anyone looking at rockers, I've had a few sets in hand and the SS 1.5 with steel hold downs have consistently been better quality than either of the SS sets with aluminum hold downs. That kit with steel hold downs is sold by other vendors and seems to get better QC. No idea about the...

Yeah, the ad is still up from 2018. They haven't listed one for this year, so far anyways. I'm definitely going to check Dr diff and Moser as well.

I was hoping strange would have a sale this year so I could pick up a dana.