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I did not. Since the gear was eaten and I found metal in the oil on the valve cover rail I did not see the point. I'm sure the filter picked up a lot of metal, that's it's job. To me the point of inspecting the filter would be at an oil change to ensure the engine was healthy. I now know it is...

Well, the verdict is in. Pulled a valve cover and wiped the rail with my finger onto a blue towel. If you look closely you'll see the small brass "sacrifice". Time to pull the engine.

I would like to know if that gear was run in a HV/HP pump! I really would like to have a better pump than a stock one, but the warning on the Hughes website is concerning, still.

I have no idea what is on there.

In retrospect, I think it's funny how they call that bronze gear "sacrificial" because it gets eaten up before the cam gear is damaged. Yeah, the cam gear may be saved but how much of the "sacrifice" is pumped into the engine to harm other components? Just kinda funny to me. Gotta laugh at this...

You can buy just the gear (or shaft) from Hughes' website. The guy at 440 Source recommended I get the entire unit (shaft & gear) assembly because trying to pin the gear to the shaft is a bugger bear.

I got the Milodon bronze gear, and no it went into a 100% street engine. The engine builder agreed that I should use that gear, but won't warrant the build now that the gear was eaten up.

No wear where the shaft goes thru the bronze bushing

Funny! My dad showed me to put a screwdriver onto the tip of the stud and the plastic part of the screwdriver in my ear. If it clattered, tighten it up a smidge until it stopped. Worked for me!

I wish there was a way to check the bearings without a teardown. I'm sure the filter caught a lot of it, but there is likely some in the pickup screen too. What to do, what to do...

He said to run a steel gear, which I understand is the melonized one. I called 440 Source and they verified that I needed to get the shaft that Hughes Engines sells. I also ordered a standard oil pump. Hopefully it makes enough pressure to satisfy the top of the engine! I'd hate to go too low...

I just called them again and they said I could run a brass or steel gear. He said the brass gear shaft is "sacrificial". My issue is now do I have shavings in my engine? I hate to tear things down to find out I did not need to, only change out the gear. I talked to 440 Source about the issue...

The cam is a solid roller (#1476) cam by Oregon Cams. I was told by them to run a brass gear.

Several months ago I replaced the intermediate shaft on my 440 (solid roller cam) with a brass Milodon. The shaft that was in there was from 440 Source and I saw a video by Just Mopar Joe where he replaced his 440 Source shaft because it had play in it. Today I pulled the distributor to find out...

Update: I attached some gauges and found the system was over charged. The tech at Vintage Air sent me a document showing the correct hi and lo pressures. I brought the pressure down to be within those ranges and the thermometer in the cabin vent went up. The VA tech said to bring the low side...

Temp starts out at about 42* when things are cool.

When I first start driving the Vintage Air system I have cools as expected. After about 30 minutes the compressor starts short cycling, whether I am stuck in traffic or driving on the highway. Just before it starts short cycling the compressor gets noisy when the clutch engages. Obviously when...

Be sure the thermostat you have is a high flow one like this Stewart Components one, not all are.

Yes, the smaller starter is a must with those headers. The Dougs were the easiest I've ever installed. The problem came when I upgraded my torsion bars to fatter ones. Now I had interference issues so had to pull the headers and put some dings in them. Frankly, there are pros and cons to...

It *should* not get a signal with the wire disconnected. Sounds like the signal wire is touching a ground somewhere along its path. That would explain the erratic things you're seeing on the gauge.

~13.6 volts

I'd say water was getting in there. Remember steam cleaning our engines by pouring water into the carb? Sure did the job of cleaning those chambers & piston tops!

One aspect is how loud it is in the car while cruising down the road with the windows closed and the other aspect is how loud it is when the windows are down. For me, I want a much quieter muffler while cruising but don't want to take a chance on buying one that is not what I want. I typically...

When I married my wife, she had just bought her first car (a 69 Charger 318) from her mom. I replaced the points for her and said that would be the last time I would ever do that. The distributor was in the back of the engine and was really hard to get to. I replaced her points with the DC kit...

Thanks. I'm open to all possibilities at this point. As I work through this and get success I will post an update.

The quickfuel carb ran OK, but not great. It made gobs of power as the secondaries opened. When I hit it I could spin the tires at 40 MPH. I put some Nitto tires on the back to try and get better traction! Biggest issue was the poor low speed "manners" that it had. Edelbrock and Holley style...

I've had it for a couple of years but only tried it on another engine without success. Yeah, after I tightened the door and it had no effect I figured that was not the solution. The carb runs great on the primaries, very snappy compared to the QF I was using. We'll get to the bottom of this!!

Is there a way to search the membership list to find members in my area? If so, how?

No sir, that did nothing.