Recent content by AndyF

Trust me, you don't need to see the video. Nick talks a lot without saying much and there is nothing in this video that you don't already know. Basically he tests a stock engine and finds out that it performs like a stock engine and then he pretends to not understand why that is.

At the shop I work with it costs roughly $4500 for all of the labor associated with machine work, balancing, bearing and ring fit, surfacing, assembly and then dyno test. Stroker engines are usually around $7500 of parts and $4500 for labor so out the door around $12K but that number varies all...

I don't know. It isn't something that I ever bothered to check since very few engines are built with gear drives. I'm sure that the design could be modified slightly to accommodate a gear drive if that was a requirement.

I'm not interested in making those covers again but I would sell my original CAD files and sign over the design rights and permission to access the tooling files for $500 The machine code files are owned by the machine shop that built the parts for me so the parts would need to be run there, but...

I suppose you are correct. Nick probably makes more money from YouTube than he does from engine building so maybe posturing for YouTube clicks is what it is all about now.

I watched some of that 383 dyno session but I lost interest before it finished. Engine looked like a resto project so it was weird that Nick was so worked up. Maybe he is just always worked up? Resto projects don't make power, they look pretty. Hard to tell in the video but it looked like a...

You can change over to B or E body drum brakes. It is an easy conversion if you have the parts in hand.

Yeah that looks like a good grind. We use Gaterman lifters and I think that the Howard hyd roller lifters are sourced from Gaterman so they should be okay. OP will need to make sure his valve springs match the new camshaft.

It is a fair price if it was put together correctly with decent parts. Before buying it you should ask for a parts list and look over the receipts.

Dedicated drag car I'd go with struts up front. Struts are lightweight, don't take up much room and will add value when you sell the car. They do a require a professional install but if you already have a full cage then it shouldn't be too difficult.

Leave the perches loose and have them welded on once the car is put together. With leaf springs you can't guess since the leafs move around a ton. If you have a Calvert setup you might be able to mock it up but even then I'd wait until the car was together. If you have a four link you can figure...

The shop I work with builds Mopar stroker engines all the time. There are usually three or four of them in process. They usually end up costing between $10K and $15K depending on the parts used. You can build a good street motor on a budget but you have to be super careful about part selection...

Thanks. That was back in the days when I had a cushy side gig writing for Motor Trend. They would pay me $1500 for the article and the vendors would send me the parts at a discount or sometimes for free. I had to do all the labor and pay for the dyno time, but I usually broke even once I cashed...

Depends on the lift. A higher rocker arm ratio won't change the advertised duration much, but it can easily double or triple the duration at the higher valve lifts. Of course, those events happen very, very quickly so it might not have much effect on power. On my 511 race engine I would pick up...

Higher ratios add duration at the higher lifts points. Adds more area under the curve.