Recent content by Dana67Dart

Those look the same as 67 up. They are typically "permanently" attached to the say bar. So you might have better luck looking for a 67 thru 72 sway bar?

This is 67 glass

I use alcohol free from Maverick gas stations. The engine was rebuilt in the 80s and may or may not have replacement valve seats. I'm not too worried about the lack of lead in the fuel.

It MIGHT be marked on the outside near the valve stem. Seems like 68 and newer it's on the outside. 67 and older it's inside the wheel covered by the tire

Water temp Oil pressure Voltage If you want to really go big... Oil temp Trans fluid temp Ammeter

14x4.5 or 14x5.5?

When you press the horn button does it start and keep running? Or does it start and when you release the horn button it dies? What if anything did you do to the wiring to install the steering wheel? Did you remove the steering column in the I stall process?

The car was my dad's daily driver, 300,000 in 25 years.

My 7/14 lasted 323,000 miles behind a 273 2bbl and 904. It would still be in use today but it was run dry (leak or not refilled at last lube change) for up to 20,000 miles.

IMHO 20 amp might not be enough. Most of the cirs have a 20 amp fuse on their own. You need to check the current draw on the red or black wire with every thing on, headlights radio doors open brake lights pressed etc, etc, etc. Then you will see how close to the limit you are running those...

It is my understanding that the drag that a dry bolt thread provides is calculated I to the torque spec. The luse allows the bolt to spin easier and now the same amount of torque is over tightening the bolt Somewhere I recall seeing lubed spec at 50 (just a number) and dry is 75 ( just a number)

Same design but not the same block

That's the way many Ford's do it back in the day. Also allowed you to get the rear fully submerged without getting water in it.