Recent content by MopaR&D

12 pages, dang... I think this goes to show both engines are good and have potential, if one was objectively better than the other all around there wouldn't be this much arguing. Just like the Chevy vs Ford vs Dodge pickup truck guys lol. I didn't vote because I like both and each kind of has...

Maybe my case is different, mine has longtube headers, 4-bbl intake and recurved distributor but stock 2-bbl cam and it'll do 0-60 in about 8 seconds with 727, 3.54:1 full-floating D60 and 33" all terrains. Very little throttle input needed to get the truck moving. And it weighs about 4400#...

360 was originally conceived for 1971 model year as a lighter, more economical alternative to the 383 in C-bodies which were Mopar's biggest volume sellers at the time. Bigger mains from the start were to improve crank fatigue life due to the longer stroke (in theory). Iirc 1972 they started...

Apparently they rust pretty quickly if the body panels aren't meticulously maintained. Some review videos on YT that are pretty hilarious, not very practical for doing actual truck things. Plus you get that characteristic Tesla bad build quality, and recently they had a recall on all of them...

I completely understand your situation, I moved from Colorado to Georgia just about a year ago for similar reasons and am much happier here. I wouldn't rule out GA, less hazards for hurricane stuff and cost of living is very low. Just stay away from Atlanta, obviously. The Carolinas are nice...

Ok good, just making sure... I learned the hard way that the 'parts cannon' approach (wasted money). The fuel system mods you are doing are worthwhile even if there aren't any issues currently. Definitely sounds ignition-related at this point, I wouldn't rule out the MSD box being bad either...

Have you checked ignition timing yet? Alternators only put out as much as the electrical system demands. You can run a 200-amp unit but if your electrical accessories only pull 40 amps that's all it'll ever put out. What's the voltage when running? There is more diagnosis you should be...

The myth that Engine Masters debunked is that aluminum heads need more compression to make the same power/torque as iron heads which is untrue. Aluminum has much less tendency to have hot spots in the chamber. Heat transfer away from the chamber is too slow to matter but localized heat buildup...

Bullet train in Japan.

Shift kit, deep pan and aux cooler will go a long way towards making a stock 904 last. The one in my Duster is a bit of a mystery, rebuilt with supposedly some upgraded hard parts but the guy I bought it from circa 2010 didn't know much about the details. FWIW I put about 35k miles on it...

I'm excited for 440 day! ...oh wait

Thanks guys, I think I'm going to swap the carb first and go from there. I'll refer back to this thread if I still end up needing to upgrade my fuel system.

I'm pretty sure the "issue" is the carb, it's sensitive to float level and the bowls aren't very big. I've had it since 2016 and since moving from Colorado last year and having to pretty drastically richen it up for the change to sea-level air the fuel system can just barely keep up. I never...

I'd agree but this is mostly a street car and electric pumps that aren't mounted inside the fuel tank are noisy as hell. Ideally I'd run an in-tank pump and bypass the mech pump (and ditch this carb for a Holley DP) but for the time being I just want something I can add into the existing system...