Recent content by PRH

If the 440Source pic is accurate, then it looks like they are a copy of the 829. But who knows how close of a copy the are. The Comps would have a wheel that’s .800” The pushrod seat height spec is obtained with a .312” ball bearing in the lifter. It’s listed as 1.79” for the 829.

I would say it’s a pretty safe bet that whichever method you choose………if you’re sure the cam is on the base circle for the valve you’re checking, and the clearance is zero or less, and you’re sure the lifters are solid………they need adjustment. You just need to know what that adjustment should be.

Seems like the normal thread progression going on here……… A thread is started about an underachieving engine build that’s making roughly .88hp/ci(actually, it’s not really an underachiever……that’s just what a combo like that’s gonna do)………and the discussion has turned to whether or not the...

Comp cams 829

Usually there’s several, “here we goooo……” I didn’t catch that the carb was a Holley VS. With a stiff spring, those will def kill off some power.

I think it would be interesting to “upgrade” the things on Nicks 383 build that are holding it back and see what it would take to put it solidly over 400/400, without going nuts on it. Intake/carb, headers, real cam(a SFT so it wouldn’t be limited in rpm by the lifters).

Unported 906’s with SBI replacement valves, good valve job with bowl cut, milled to about 77cc, dual springs. Flowed low-230’s. TRW pistons at +.020, with flycuts, steel shim gaskets, stock rods, stock cast crank from a 400(still externally balanced). Comp SFT, 256/262-106, isky rockers, RPM...

When you’ve done enough to a 383 to make a big improvement in power from stock, the factory 301 intake is a pretty noticeable cork. When I tested that on mine in 2002 I think it was like 35-40hp better with an RPM. But I was already in the 420hp range with the stock intake(big SFT cam, headers...

FWIW, I don’t mind 383’s at all. The few I’ve built have turned out pretty well imo. My view on a stock type rebuild is this……. You’re not really serious about wanting power if you’re not willing to upgrade the main items that are holding your particular combo back. In most cases that means an...

Based on the pic in the catalog, showing a cutaway of all the pushrods in that series, they’re oil thru. For non-oiling pushrods like that, you’re more than likely going to need something from Smith Bros, Manton, or Trend.

I think you mean”likes” :)

Ex open/int closes is how I do it. That method along with a remote starter switch makes it easy-peasy.

If there were only a place where one could go to see what the competitors ran at that event.

I don’t know if that’s an issue with your head, but I have reworked a chamber too much and had that happen.

Were you planning on mapping the flow as it exits the valve from the chamber side like you’ve done before? Be interesting to see if the dead areas changed at all.