Auto-X / Roadrace rear suspension 1969 Valiant
So, on the E-bodies I can say the following- the front hangers are not angled, neither are the spring perches, or rear shackles. What that means is that the angle on the springs is taken up by the rubber bushings front and rear, which is not a great idea if you get rid of the rubber bushings. But the E's don't have very much angle either. Forr what you're planning, I would suggest angling the spring sliders in the back. The perches probably don't need it as long as the angle is fairly shallow. The front hangers, I dunno. I would try to set at the same angle if possible, especially with the 3" relocation spring boxes because of the amount of leaf spring tucked into the box.
Hyperco makes Chrysler springs, they still show them as available so you might look into them. I didn't do a quote to see what the stock and price looked like. These were made for oval track originally, and they should have the 20.5" front section
Shop Composite Leaf Springs - Buy Online | Hyperco
There are a few threads about them on some of the other forums, a member named "Brads70" uses them and has a detailed write up over on the old cuda-challenger forum. He used Hyperco springs in a #175 and then a #225 lb/in rate, although it's worth noting that the Hotchkis E-body springs are 160 lb/in, the A-bodies are 130 lb/in. He had to use extended front hangers on his E-body like you do with the SS springs which also have the 20.5" front section (E's used a 22" front section and longer spring). Mopar Mitch, who also races a Challenger pretty extensively, was also using the 225 lb/in Hyperco's
Anyone in here using composite leaf springs?
There's also a thread over at Moparts...
Fiberglass Springs any good?
Seems to me like there is definitely a "conversion" factor in the spring rates, I ran SS springs on my Challenger with 1.12" torsion bars (270 lb/in) and they were pretty darn stiff, although they also changed the rake on the car substantially. I went to XHD's later which are a much lower spring rate.
Also from the DC rear suspension bulletin, E-body spring angle was only 1.67°
Yes, you definitely have to consider the source of the information when looking at the geometry and set up. A lot of the information out there on Mopar rear suspension is either drag race or oval track. And while the oval tracks springs themselves are very useful, setting up the geometry is a little different. You don't want to stagger side to side for sure for autoX or road race since you'll want your turn in to be the same. And you definitely want to be careful with roll steer. On an oval all your transitions are turning the same way. On an AutoX course you may have to change direction quickly, so a bunch of roll steer on the exit will not be a good thing.
I run the leaf spring sliders on my Duster. They definitely don't make a "hell of a racket". Occasionally over speed bumps or things I can hear them click, but realistically at any kind of speed or RPM I can't hear them over my exhaust.
Yep, moving the springs away from the contact patch will change the roll couple, and stiffer springs would be needed to maintain it.
So, on the E-bodies I can say the following- the front hangers are not angled, neither are the spring perches, or rear shackles. What that means is that the angle on the springs is taken up by the rubber bushings front and rear, which is not a great idea if you get rid of the rubber bushings. But the E's don't have very much angle either. Forr what you're planning, I would suggest angling the spring sliders in the back. The perches probably don't need it as long as the angle is fairly shallow. The front hangers, I dunno. I would try to set at the same angle if possible, especially with the 3" relocation spring boxes because of the amount of leaf spring tucked into the box.
Hyperco makes Chrysler springs, they still show them as available so you might look into them. I didn't do a quote to see what the stock and price looked like. These were made for oval track originally, and they should have the 20.5" front section
Shop Composite Leaf Springs - Buy Online | Hyperco
There are a few threads about them on some of the other forums, a member named "Brads70" uses them and has a detailed write up over on the old cuda-challenger forum. He used Hyperco springs in a #175 and then a #225 lb/in rate, although it's worth noting that the Hotchkis E-body springs are 160 lb/in, the A-bodies are 130 lb/in. He had to use extended front hangers on his E-body like you do with the SS springs which also have the 20.5" front section (E's used a 22" front section and longer spring). Mopar Mitch, who also races a Challenger pretty extensively, was also using the 225 lb/in Hyperco's
Anyone in here using composite leaf springs?
There's also a thread over at Moparts...
Fiberglass Springs any good?
Seems to me like there is definitely a "conversion" factor in the spring rates, I ran SS springs on my Challenger with 1.12" torsion bars (270 lb/in) and they were pretty darn stiff, although they also changed the rake on the car substantially. I went to XHD's later which are a much lower spring rate.
Also from the DC rear suspension bulletin, E-body spring angle was only 1.67°
Yes, you definitely have to consider the source of the information when looking at the geometry and set up. A lot of the information out there on Mopar rear suspension is either drag race or oval track. And while the oval tracks springs themselves are very useful, setting up the geometry is a little different. You don't want to stagger side to side for sure for autoX or road race since you'll want your turn in to be the same. And you definitely want to be careful with roll steer. On an oval all your transitions are turning the same way. On an AutoX course you may have to change direction quickly, so a bunch of roll steer on the exit will not be a good thing.
I run the leaf spring sliders on my Duster. They definitely don't make a "hell of a racket". Occasionally over speed bumps or things I can hear them click, but realistically at any kind of speed or RPM I can't hear them over my exhaust.
Yep, moving the springs away from the contact patch will change the roll couple, and stiffer springs would be needed to maintain it.
