1964 Valiant Top Install
Update. The side cables were so long I doubled them, forming a loop at the front end w/ crimp (bought extra 1/16" cable crimps at H.D.). Covered with heat shrink to protect the fabric. On right side, the cable was slightly shorter so the spring is a bit more extended than the left in photo. The instructions didn't give any guidance. Rather than the sheet-metal screws, I used a stainless screw w/ nut at the header and tapped a 10-24 hole at rear for a SS screw (anti-seize on threads). The other hole is a rust-thru in the header.
Waiting on 1/2"L stainless staples to better secure the main top to the rear bow before pulling it tight and gluing at the front header. I also used PL1 polyurethane adhesive to help secure it. After that, I'll screw the bottom of the main top to the aft body flange and install the rear chrome trim. I jumped the gun on installing the side chrome and weatherstrip, since I see a front and rear flap must be glued underneath them after securing the top.
Strange that the Velcro strips on the top and rear curtain don't align, only overlapping at the bottom. The green tape on the Velcro keeps it from grabbing while fooling with top alignment. Perhaps had I moved the curtain forward more the Velcro strips would align. The zipper is right against the rear bow, so to move the curtain forward, I would have to adjust the rear bow cables out more. But, I set the rear bow per Shop Manual (something like at 17.5" lateral along bow from center on each side, measure 24.5" to rear body lip, memory don't quote me). As is, I trimmed ~1" off the bottom center flap of the curtain to match the body lip.
Some sites say to glue the lower part of the top to the rear curtain, but that makes it permanent. Instead, I may glue other Velcro strips to both top and curtain, to match the factory-sewn Velcro. Anybody else deal with this? The manual makes no mention. Indeed, the manual in the kit is far from the setup on our cars, apply more to GM and Ford.
Update. The side cables were so long I doubled them, forming a loop at the front end w/ crimp (bought extra 1/16" cable crimps at H.D.). Covered with heat shrink to protect the fabric. On right side, the cable was slightly shorter so the spring is a bit more extended than the left in photo. The instructions didn't give any guidance. Rather than the sheet-metal screws, I used a stainless screw w/ nut at the header and tapped a 10-24 hole at rear for a SS screw (anti-seize on threads). The other hole is a rust-thru in the header.
Waiting on 1/2"L stainless staples to better secure the main top to the rear bow before pulling it tight and gluing at the front header. I also used PL1 polyurethane adhesive to help secure it. After that, I'll screw the bottom of the main top to the aft body flange and install the rear chrome trim. I jumped the gun on installing the side chrome and weatherstrip, since I see a front and rear flap must be glued underneath them after securing the top.
Strange that the Velcro strips on the top and rear curtain don't align, only overlapping at the bottom. The green tape on the Velcro keeps it from grabbing while fooling with top alignment. Perhaps had I moved the curtain forward more the Velcro strips would align. The zipper is right against the rear bow, so to move the curtain forward, I would have to adjust the rear bow cables out more. But, I set the rear bow per Shop Manual (something like at 17.5" lateral along bow from center on each side, measure 24.5" to rear body lip, memory don't quote me). As is, I trimmed ~1" off the bottom center flap of the curtain to match the body lip.
Some sites say to glue the lower part of the top to the rear curtain, but that makes it permanent. Instead, I may glue other Velcro strips to both top and curtain, to match the factory-sewn Velcro. Anybody else deal with this? The manual makes no mention. Indeed, the manual in the kit is far from the setup on our cars, apply more to GM and Ford.
