Search results for query: *

addco bars have some of the most clunky and cumbersome install hardware and positioning. you have my sympathy because i know it was a pain in all nine assholes.

i'll show you mine if you show me yours... i totally would've put up, but mine not addco and all the stuff is detached from the frame for reasons.

sounds like a hot saturday night steaming up the windows parked down by the river. hey-ooo!

well... where are the pics?

...>"i believe" >three angle valve job w/ a back cut (c'mon you're just regurgitating info here) >truck block, high nickel content, H beam rods (*snerk*) >"i think, i wish i could remember, i don't remember the exact details, i don't know for sure, etc, etc, etc. it don't matter if you got a...

or if you're like me, the first 2K goes into buying a block, and then a crank and rods, then realizing that one or all of that is crap so then you buy better stuff, and you're half way to 6700 before you hit the machine shop and the heads you bought off johnny race gas needs exhaust seats and...

i'm calling shenanigans on that 650hp 406 for 6.7. you'd need nearly half that in heads alone to put down that kinda juice. yeah, maybe he got some deals but two things: one, how long are those questionable parts gonna hang out-- especially if he cheaped out somewhere on something; and B- the...

smart play. hope the rest of the assembly goes swimmingly!

an 8.25 with a LSD of some type should hold up fine. keep in mind that most any 8.75 is going to be small bolt pattern unless it's been upgraded to big bolt, or it's a rear end that's been narrowed for our cars. a 9" is a viable alternative and it's nice that you can have them built to spec...

man, that looks about the *** end of hard luck. i'd 100% flay the oil filter and see how much glitter there is floating about. it's a judgement call on dropping the pan; it's like once you're there it's in for a penny, in for a pound so you might as well check the bearings. it's more work...

no, at least not to my knowledge. i *think* i know what you're talking about, but post a pic to remove any doubt.

i've got two 340 units that will work. PM sent

jeebus. dodged a bullet there. don't bother with any lottery tickets for awhile, you done used up all your good luck on that one! ETA: the paint looks fantastic!

is it sloppy on the shaft or just the key? you could try another key. if it's all bobo then just suck it up and order a decent timing kit from summit and call it done. you might be able to make your case with the supplier and see if they're credit you some dough on the back end. if not, let...

well, yes. maybe they were utilizing their newfound vocab from the word a day that the love of their life got them? idk man, i just kinda work here. i have to wear 15 pieces of flair, it's the minimum.

"adjunct" maybe? as in joined or added? like press fit pins? or maybe "adjust" as in hone the little end of the rod for fit?

i like it. remember to go into it with realistic expectations. everybody wants to build street/strip cars or 400+ horse or whatever and throw hi stall converters around with tall *** gears-- which is fine if that's the kind of driving you want to do and the performance you're looking for...

the right BBP disc OEM stuff? cuz if so that's easy-peasy lemon sqeezey. (i'm happy to help, i'm in LA, shoot me a PM) if you're still on the drum line, this might work for you https://www.lkqpickyourpart.com/inventory/sun-valley-1263/1968-dodge-coronet/

**two sold** **one pending payment** vertical one is up for grabs still.

because that like, 1.5% matters, man.

...there's also the consideration that a lot of machine shops don't like sloppy seconds. and if they will take the work in, expect to pay again for *waves hand vaugely* this or that or whatever. but on the other hand, if he hasn't done nuthin' on nuthin' then get your money, scoop your **** and...

i'd love to know what those cam grinds were. that torqe curve is impressive, only rolls 25 +/- across but that HP jump off the start where it bumps nearly 100 in 800rpm must be a real kick in the shorts. i can't tell if i'm reading it right, is that 590 hours on the motor?

i love how the pull starts at 5600...

if the motor is in good condition why not throw a cam at it and maybe do some heads or work a little love on the stock units? if you don't have a converter and gears, that would be another area to upgrade. and while i wouldn't say that stuff is cheap, it's an alternative to dropping massive...

cleared inbox. just shot you a message

**two pending sale**

**one pending sale***

**pending**

OEM speedo housing, retaining clip/bolt and the cable routing clip. all original parts, not cheap offshore junk. degreased, inspected and cleaned. ready for install. fits 66+ 904/727 and 833 26~45 pinions $40 plus shipping or pick up in person.

OEM K member attaching bolts. degreased, inspected and cleaned. ready to install. $40 set plus shipping or pick up in person. the first set is off a 72 duster and will work for anything 67~76 this set is shorter and has loose washers, they came off a 63/64 valiant