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I've been able to remove and reuse those rivets. I use a real sharp small chisel to drive under the head of the rivet and work it up and out. The rivet is splined and the splines are slightly curved, so, the rivet comes out with a slight twist to it. Use some locktite to re-install it.

If you need all the guts, get '64-5 2dr HT doors. Some '66 parts and '64-4 doors of other body styles are the same too, but, I'd get the earlier 2dr HT ones to be sure you'd get all the correct parts. Someone is bound to have some rusted out doors that still have good internal parts.

Why did they recall it?

You can save the ring and pinion too.....if they're still good.

As a complete rear end, it should fit just fine along with JYH's caveats. As for keeping spare parts off the old rear end.....keep the brakes, housing cover, and the pinion flange. The housing, axle shafts, axle bearings and seals are all different. Just remember to order replacement parts for...

Machine shop stampings. Probably the person who did the job and the work order number. Stupid stamp location though.

I'd use the same specs unless you do tons of parallel parking and have weak arm strength. Then I'd maybe have a touch less caster.

Agree, the OP's is upside down and backwards.

JFWIW, an easy way to tell the difference between a poly block and an LA block is that a poly block doesn't have freeze plugs in the front.

2nd M&H for the main harnesses. You'd have to check to see if an A/C and/or Convertible top harness is even available. Those will usually survive a meltdown, so, yours might be reusable.

I believe that is a '66 Plymouth A-body only horn button....and not even all of '66. My early '66 Barracuda still used the V emblem. The B-bodies in '66 had that wheel option too, but, I think the horn button was different.

The OP's window crank looks to be the '77-up type. Probably off a B or F-body.

Yup, and we have at least two flavors of them. One is a general smog shop where repairs and other services can be done too. The other is a test only smog shop where no repairs can be done. My '78 W250 at one time (before I bought it) was deemed a "gross polluter", so, I have to take it to a test...

If nothing is worn out, I'd just live with the squeak, or, turn the radio up louder! :lol:

When I replace U-joints, I always seat them by driving the cups outward so the clip fit tight against the driveshaft ears. To do that, I use a vice as an anvil. Open the jaws until it's the right width to catch both ears on one plane and smack the driveshaft with a rubber mallet right on the end...

My Ca. version 1978 W250 360 auto has a smog pump. It would be a bit strange that a 100 would not need one, but, a 250 would. Usually, it's the other way around.

I looked a pair of original seats and they're like Cuda Mike's the lever goes back to release the seat track.

Driver's side is the same. Passenger side is much tougher.

A few years ago, I used to get $150 for the whole good working and undamaged setup. Not sure what the market is like now. Probably getting a bit harder to find, but, is there much demand now?

That setup is not correct for a '66 Barracuda, but, it gives you an idea on what is needed.

On non-A/C cars, you get some stuff out by reaching up through the fresh air vent boxes into the cowl area to remove some debris. I also use an air nozzle with a long tip to blow down through the outer louvers on the cowl to help unclog it. It's not always completely successful though. Good Luck!

Your '63 looks to be a 3 speed manual shift. The wear on the shift collar looks to be from the add-on turn signal switch. More than likely, you switch went bad and this was the easiest/cheapest way to get them working again at the time. You'd have to pull the steering wheel off to verify. As for...

Looks like you're missing the wiper arms too. The gas cap is also and aftermarket one. What do you have plugged into the top rear of the intake manifold? It almost looks like some switches or sending units? I think the throttle return spring is in the wrong spot. It should go between the ears on...

I've got some of the Signet moldings for it. I have both doors and some of the other, but, not all. I'd have to take a look again to give you details. Looks like you have a few other pieces to get to make it stock looking.....like the aftermarket outside mirror. Looks like the original dual...

Yup, I've had a pair of 315 casting heads with the later 3/8 intake bolts too.....and believe it or not, a pair of 920's with the 5/16 intake bolts! The combustion chambers are the same size, so, in that respect, there would be no problem running one with the other. It's just what did they do to...

Why does the switch have a wobble to it? If it's just poor quality/design, maybe add a custom angle bracket under the push rod nut that will have a wider contact area for the button on the switch. If it just slips off one side, maybe bend the bracket over a bit to center the button better.

What's a hinge latch?

Just keep a set of points and condenser in your glove box to convert back if that happens.

No idea.

The vent frame is the same from '68-72 on a 2drHT. '67 is different even though the glass itself is the same.