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BBM, or SBM?

@toolmanmike I think this thread should be closed to further comment so the party's concerned do not get hurt feelings "again". In my opinion, it's done, it's history, leave it the "HELL" alone and everyone go about their daily business.

Look at "440source" to see if they might have a match.

Welcome from Texas, what ever problems you are having, I'm sure some of the members have a solution.

What RRR said, plus take the air cleaner and check the vacuum line to the vacuum advance on the distributor. It sounds to me like it just needs a good going over and check out the timing.

It looks like possibly a date stamp as to when they were possibly rebuilt 080202, August 6, 2002.. The TF might be the rebuilders initials or possibly the person who did the work.

replicaracer43, myself and a lot of the other members like your insight and answers to questions, keep up the good work. I, along with many others are glad to see you back.

Look on the back side of the handle and post the 7 digit part number. Someone can probably set you up with that number, see example in post #2, third picture.

What carburetor is on it now, brand, part number, etc? We can probably help you more with any information other than what you have given so far.

@Rocket had stainless shafts at one time.

Where did you find them, are they an Ebay seller? The shafts look like they are for stamped steel hydraulic rockers.

Welcome from Texas. post up some pictures please.

What are the numbers of what you have?

Or the OP could have and old standard volume pump that is worn out. They really didn't give us much of a story on the engine, so it comes down to us guessing.

I'm running the Isky ductile iron rockers on my bracket 408 with a Comp roller cam that has gross lift of .690 intake and .660 exhaust and have no problems.

I built a 458 out of a bunch of spare parts, put it in a gutted 70 Duster with 2 stages of nitrous. It was plumb scary when the second stage 250 shot came on.

Check you PM (conversation).

Which car, does it run and drive, is it all together, or in pieces?

What is the PN on it? It looks like it's for a 66 and later SBM.

What TMM said!

Look at the cold cranking amperage and amp hour rating, and make your decision from there.

Just out of curiosity, have you checked to see if the outer ring on the balancer has spun and giving you false timing stats?

She's stuck to the floor, get the spatula to break the vacuum! LMAO

Pictures of the engine compartment, please.

3B Engineering, they have a sheet to fill out and supply parts to get the rocker arm geometry corrected.

Doesn't that have a timing chain tensioner on it?

If the lower neck is the OD same size as the water pump neck, it will work. The radiator I have (not Cold Case) has an angled lower neck on it, I just had to shorten my lower hose by 1/4" to take the slight kink out of it.

AND, as per the rules you need a location. Even though it says "Alabama" under his avatar, that covers a "lot" of territory.

Before you spend the money for 1.6 rockers, get with 3B to correct the geometry. It is well worth the money.

Jack, as suggested earlier either the block or the heads need to be o ringed. Under normal street driving with the blower you won't normally have a problem. But when you get into it, the boost is trying to push the head gaskets out. That is ONE of the shortcomings of the SBM with only 10 head...