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scott, maybe it'd be nice if your 'resto boards' shown next to the car had a 'header' on them advertising sean's business as it would almost certainly bring work his way. it'd help his pain i'm sure, lol. just don't tell anyone what you paid. it's a great car as said by everyone who's been...

maybe they thought the 'roughness' would help stop the header gaskets blowing/slipping out, lol.

if you can find a machine shop that speaks fluent mopar and you'll find them easier to work with. :thumbsup: neil.

you obviously weren't having a dig at scott, that's clear. almost every post on the subject you say he's a good guy and it's not his fault. seems it was just a mis communication issue going on through the project. i often do more than i'm asked on customers cars even though i know i won't get...

i wouldn't use just water. coolant/antifreeze has corrosion inhibitors. if you've ever seen an internally furred up ally intake etc you'll know plain water's not good. neil.

fingers crossed it's an injector at fault then :thumbsup: neil.

now it seems to be fuel related why not just swap injector 5 with another that you know works? if 5 still won't fire it's the wiring not the injector and no money spent. neil.

if 'the build' does it for you maybe say in your advert you might take a project in px. some one getting nowhere with their car may want one ready to drive but worry about what to do with their project. neil.

and that's relevant because?

what's wrong with a prop rod like lots of modern cars have? no moving parts to go wrong, no leaking gas struts and so on. simple is good and reliable as a rock. :thumbsup: neil.

i hate building parts that someone else took apart. it's like doing a jigsaw puzzle without the lid off of the box. neil.

lol, are you looking on your phone? that won't help, i can't see **** on a screen that small even with my glasses on. that's why i have an old style nokia with buttons still. :rolleyes: neil.

then do it again and stop talking about it. oh...... but that'd mean actually buying a car wouldn't it :poke: :rofl:

looking at the pics i prefer the painted bumpers, but that's just me. neil.

what spacers? looks like the carb's bolted directly to the inlet to me. neil.

'curiosity killed the cat' as they say, lol. if it runs well and doesn't leak there's no 'real' reason to unseal the motor and potentialy get valve cover leaks just so you 'know' what heads it has. i'd leave well enough alone. my grandad used to say 'if it ain't broke don't fix it'. neil.

that was a bargain then :thumbsup:

test things one at a time though or you won't know what fixed it (if either does), lol. neil.

the oil obviously dribbles/seeps round the threads down onto the ball and cup. it's not rocket science, it's worked well for decades and doesn't warrant the amount of questioning you're giving it. neil.

even if it costs more than it's worth it'll never lose as much money as driving a brand new car off the lot :thumbsup: neil.

:BangHead: :rofl:

you're not the only one with sausage fingers, lol. neil.

:thumbsup:

calipers to the rear? not rotors? lol.

that could be when removing those brackets. i went to manual brakes on my 68 valiant, the pedal ratio was the same on servo and non servo so i hoped it's be ok. no..... the pedal was very hard with less travel and no feel...... or power. the pedal would need drilling closer to the pivot where...

my point was you'll never have an engine to build at the rate you're going. and yes i drill a hole in stats, always have. neil.

is that an imaginary hole in one of the many imaginary engines? :BangHead:

an imaginary one :poke: :rofl:

that's a very cool upgrade and as you say looks almost stock. so many led headlights have those smaller circles in the 'bowl' and look far too modern (imo) for even most 'modern' cars. that type is not my cup of tea at all, whereas these i'd fit in a heartbeat. neil.

and if you haven't add a second hose clamp to the pipe, belt and braces as my grandad used to say (he was a farmer). neil.