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Title should explain it all. I need bigger overbore. $299 + shipping from Spokane 99201.

SOLD.

Heard from guy #1. He has committed to them. Waiting on payment.

Waiting on a response from the 1st in line. Cuda416 & harrisonm are next respectively.

SOLD These came with some other parts. I am not a fan of wrinkle black and don't want to blast them to powder coat or paint them. They appear to be in very good condition save some oil soot on the inside, residual blue RTV & cork gasket remnants (see the new underside pics). Sadly, not as...

IDK what your budget is but strongly consider hot tanking the block to clear out any gunk, new freeze plugs & reuse the threaded parts. I know you asked about a cam recommendation but what are your plans for the engine (daily driver, hot street, street/strip, strip, some of each, etc.)? I...

It's in the title.

Thank you WymanV, the final piece to the puzzle is now clear. I appreciate your help.

Especially for @A56:

I agree w/RRR. That piston is done. I'm surprised the cylinder wall survived. If this were me, I'd pull the other 7 pistons. Next, I'd put a mic on the cylinder walls with an eye to a rehone or possibly new +.020 slugs.

I have my moments.

Thank you to all of you who have responded. The Speedmasters seem to be the overwhelming choice albeit a small sample size. I will also take @rumblefish360's advice and investigate bowl porting. I know I will be back with more questions and look forward to tapping into the considerable...

I appreciate the spring recommendation. Are we ok with the 10* Speedmaster spring retainers & valve locks or should we bulletproof it with corresponding Comp parts?

My vote is to remove the piston & check the piston rings, piston skirt and cylinder wall on the right side where all the corrosion is located. I think you'll find there is a reason for the rings to be grabbing. I can't tell from the picture, but it appears the same corrosion is in the water...

That's good to hear, thanks. You said it 'was' really amazing. Are you using a different engine/cam now?

I owe @A56 a response on the 340 block I asked about & will most probably be getting. Planning ahead, please give your opinions on the following 3 heads only (no TF, Eddy or other choices please & I don't need a lecture on buying parts made from Chinesesium): 1) '73 -587 iron heads w/o egr...

krazykuda, thanks for link - pretty much everything I was looking for. pink340swinger, I had a '71 that was visually identical to the car in your avatar. Sweet ride. A56, it will be a day or two before I can get back over to where this is at but will post the info when I do.

I have the opportunity to obtain a 340 block. Cast Number: 2780930-340-5 Cast date: 7/10/69 ID Number: R135495. Am I right in saying this is a 1970 340 built in the Ontario CN plant? If so, I know Darts & Dusters were built there. Is there any way to tease out any other info on this block...

A strong second to this! Ken has ground me 3 different cams and each one has performed better than expectations in the engine they went in. Also, there isn't anything wrong with a 383. You do you. You're also in the right place to get quality advice if you can sift through the pontificators...

Great looking hot rod you got there! Welcome.

Thanks for the primer on RBs/440s. Unfortunately. I was ghosted by the seller (re: no pics) and when I finally got him to respond, he said both engines were sold. Oh well, I'm much better informed for the next time I look at a 440. I appreciate everyone's help.

Thank you Andy, et al. I'll try & get the casting numbers and VINs before traveling. I've also asked for pics of the ID bosses to verify the info he provided earlier.

Thanks for the responses fellas. I'll let you know what I find.

There are 2 440 engines which I am considering. Before I go check them out, I'd like to know what I'm looking at. The info on the first pad is: T 440 E 6 19 The second pad is reported as: 8 440 EHP 1 51 What are these engines? Assuming everything else is equal between the two, is one...

If your intent is to flip this, walk away now.

@Drache, Thanks for doing the leg work on these two. If I were in the market for an A-body, I'd certainly consider them; however, we'd have a Lorena Bobbitt situation if I brought home another car right now.

To the OP, from reading the posts in this threat I hope you will have learned some things. (1) Mopars are expensive to build in comparison to other makes. They are not as cheap as slapping together a 454 & dropping it in a Chevy - in fact, most Mopar guys will admit they are into their cars for...

I think the intake & carb compliment the pie tin, not the other way around. Use the triangle mesh unit (sans foam 'filter') upside down to hold small things in your part washer...

If we're keeping score, my vote is for the AVS2 650 for the reasons others have put forward. As for the question quoted, I wonder if it matters whether the individual is from North America or 'down under'? What about a North American in Australia and vice versa? Or is it food dependent...

Update: A quick check of the hole sizes in the body & dash frame followed by a trip to the local hardware store yielded appropriate U-nuts & 3/4" length bolts. The plan is to install the dash temporarily while loading up as many other parts & using the car as a rolling storage container in the...