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Hey guys. So what are you recommending in general for basic oil system prep? I'm not really interested in major mods unless it's really warranted. I've seen the oiling mods thread and a lot of that seems to go pretty far. What would you guys say are the key things to address on an engine that...

ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS double check all critical clearances. Machining is definitely expensive. This block required quite a bit of rework on this last go around. Between decks requiring correction, the correction on the bores, and the rebalancing required on the reciprocating assembly, I was north...

So my next order of business is to prep the block for assembly. My current plan is this: 1. I need to get out the dial bore gauges and double check piston bore clearances. Same for mains. 2. I'll debur and smooth the oil drain backs. 3. I'll test install the cam just to make sure it spins...

Yes you're exactly right!

I just worry about messing things up. Honestly ootb the bowls looked well blended. I don't want to play with material removal as it's just not a science I'm familiar with. And I know for sure it's something I could easily make less power from.

Yeah I know. It's basically... do I want to have another 100 HP or a couple grand less in the bank account. Right now the money is needed so the hundo will have to wait.

Would be ideal if it can drive. That's my goal right now :rofl: With the heads being the basically stock I'm definitely airflow limited. But that plus spray should still be plenty fast.

Should be a fun deal. If I can just get it finished :rolleyes: It's going to go in this beat up old drag car:

Don't expect to learn much from me :lol:

Yeah I have been keeping up. I figured as much. Maybe you getting rested up will coincide with my budget opening up.

I really need to get this put together. The finished block has been sitting under my workbench for.... probably a year and a half now. Anyway, finally getting some time to work on it. It's a 340 block, 0.40 over. So that makes for a pretty big bore size of 4.080. This was originally planned as...

Ring gap, conservative timing, plenty of fuel. E85 and you can bump it up.

That cam is small for a blown 408. With the nice heads it's probably 475 naturally aspirated. Approx power level: Boosted HP = NA HP x (boost pressure + atmospheric pressure)/atmospheric pressure. 475 x (10+14.7)/14.7 = 790 HP. This is idealized so you have to factor in things like...

Ok being a rear sump pan that makes more sense. Still looks lower than it probably is probably a camera angle thing. Nothing but accolades on your build though. I hope that between kids and my business I can get more time to work on cars one day.

Ok. Seems like with it being near the bottom of the pan it would push oil up directly into the can if pressurized. Maybe I'm seeing the pan connection wrong.

What does the catch can do to reduce crankcase pressure, or is that just a better way to evacuate the ventilation from the valve covers?

Very interesting. Thank you for doing some experimenting and publishing results. What's the difference between this and installing a larger valve and offsetting the location by (half) the increase in diameter?

@subcom great post. As always your content is great. Thanks for this. Real information vs. pure speculation.

I bet a hemi short block with forged pistons and aftermarket rods would hold up just fine for a long time with the right tune at 1500 hp

I mean, That's gonna be the same either way.

I mean, with some reasonable upgrades you could take a stockish hemi to 1500 with a nice turbo setup. You wouldn't need to spend 10k.

Obviously lighter reciprocating components will help with how fast/responsive an engine is. Lots of other factors come to play that are also important. First and foremost, for an engine to rev up fast, against the weight of the vehicle, the engine needs to be powerful. Matched gearing and...

Why stop at 150?

I don't think guys are stupid. But I do think a lot of guys are ignorant and/or stubborn and hanging onto old beliefs. There was once a time when I, too, believed a short stroke equates to a revver. I was ignorant. I saw a lot of not exotic builds proving the contrary and realized I was...

Sooooo much BS information here. The whole idea about short stroke engines being "rev happy" is straight bull****. That's a myth that's been completely debunked. An engines ability to rev has much more to do with cam timing, carefully matched valve train components, and head flow capabilities...

4.04-3.91=0.130 Maybe use a calculator next time

A 340 short block, equivalently built, would probably be a $500-1000 premium compared to a 318 or 360 based engine. The $2k is overblown. Ironically a 273 probably would cost more because of the specialty pistons required.

Can you clarify this?

Look at a 318 piston side by side with a 340 piston, before you make a statement like "318 and 340 bore size difference isn't much" Besides the numbers matching guys out there, THE reason the 340 is and will always be king, is because of that "minor" extra 0.130" bore. It's much more than just...

Finding a nice serviceable core is becoming more rare. Plenty already bored out and needing sleeves. At that point might as well start looking for a race block.