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here's my gripe about the pertronix, say the thing fails on a dirt road at the *** end of hard luck? what are your options? with OE EI the failure is *likely* going to be a ballast or ECU which, and if you've read the syllabus, you should be carrying in your glove box. but in the case of...

be wary of the cheap repop and offshore junk available on summit and ebay. the yards are littered with them, but don't get a lean burn unit. a wanted ad here would probably turn one up. or @halifaxhops our resident distributor master would be a great resource.

273/318/340/360 it's all the same. factory electronic is the way to go.

E code is euro spec, and for us or our "type" of headlamps, it is basically the "pattern" and means it has a sharp cutoff line for the low beam. the number is the origin or approval code for the country.

i run Hella H4 E codes with 55/60 bulbs, and boy howdy is it bright. like, got pulled over in texas bright. i know that didn't answer your question about sealed beams, but the conversion is super low effort with no mods except the minimal wiring upgrade. another benefit is that if you ever...

piston stop. turn it till it quits and mark, now turn it the other way till it stops and mark. half way between the marks is TDC.

sounds like you're in like flynn. just be mindful of the accessories lining up. also, if you want to change out the pulleys for say and aftermarket set up or whatever, 100% check your balancer bolt pattern before ordering. after the whole thing with your rear brakes, who knows what you might...

yeah, it all interchanges. you'll need to remark your balancer for TDC. unless it already has one (some balancers do, or it could be an early or late one-- anything can change in 50 years). remember though, the pulleys are specific to the early and late style, so you may have alignment issues...

69 and down is driver's side exit pump and timing tab on the pass side. 70+ is timing on the driver's side and outlet on the pass side this coincides with the location of the stock radiator outlet. so, if you change any one thing, all of it doesn't work well together. cost wise, the 70+ stuff...

i don't restore cars. i'm a mechanic and i work on old cars (and sometimes new). you need suspension rebuilt? no problem. you need a rear end swapped? sure thing. wanna go from a slant to a V8, or swap a big block? that's my jam. but no restoration. brakes, waterpumps, tune ups, reseal an...

i personally think the copper/brass stock-ish radiator is the way to roll. yeah it's more expensive, but it's also a known entity and you can get a shroud for it and everything just works together right from the jump. the champion rads are attractive at half the price. and i know guys that...

if you don't care about originality and aren't stickler for details, then 70+ is the way forward. i have a 69 and to me the bubble top rad is what "makes" the look, so i'm stuck with the expensive stuff due to my own aesthetic choices. but i'm also operating from a position of already having a...

with the 360 timing cover you won't be able to see the timing marks-- or just barely, if you can. it also exits on the DS. the key is that it all has to work as a system, otherwise you wind up with a kludged together mess. if i was in your position i'd look at something 70+ so it's pass side...

oh, you certainly can. but as Mathew notes, there may be some adjustments necessary as they don't mount exactly the same. generally it's just in getting the mounting right so that you have space for the fan and the top clears the hood.

yeah, sort of. it's all interchangeable but with the change over the waterpump outlet moved along with the timing marks on the timing and the lower radiator outlet. so if you run the wrong combo of parts you either can't see the timing marks or you have to jog the lower radiator hose from one...

lower rad looks okay from the pic. just for future edification, on V8 69 on down and 70+ are their own systems with timing covers, water pumps, dampeners, pulleys, (some) brackets being specific to each set. this doesn't necessarily affect you in that you've got a later 360, but it is...

alternator troubles aside, that radiator is for, /6 i believe: center inlet, and pass side outlet. that's marginal at best for a V8 also the accordion hose looks like a lump on a sore dick, take care of that mess. and like CM said, adios that flex fan while you're there. on the AC, a lot of...

i'd guess a combination of grounds and the turn signal switch. sometimes if the switch is not installed properly it'll break in a way that can short or ground the lamps. so you're left with one hanging on or only brake lights.

i didn't know pertronix made a kit either. anyway, for me the ability to walk into just about any parts store and get replacement parts is a key deciding factor.

https://www.manciniracing.com/marasl6igkit.html or you can piece meal together the kit thru used parts and some creative wiring. some swear by the HEI style conversion which you can find here: https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=15779

crew chief hits the recall button... Y U go to 8? i said 7 and it's not because that's as high as i can count!

nah man, post away. whatever helps keep your spirits up, the lights on and the motor running. best wishes and good vibes on your healing/recovery