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post a wanted ad here in the classifieds and i'm sure something will turn up. there's a set on e-bay right now. either way be prepared to open your wallet wide. if you don't care about originality or eeking out the last bit of performance 318 or 360 manifolds would work fine, as would...

transverse bars? those are only in the deep dark woods of FMJ stuff the spool mount came in 73 with the front suspension redesign, but everything essentially remained the same, just with a little more room all around (redesigned centerlink).

i say if you can get the step headers to fit to your liking use them. picking up some precious torque in the midrange and getting some horsepower when you're legging it out instead of shifting on the course might be worth fractions of a second. i wouldn't say that headers would be "necessary"...

they're just as trying in the install department as doug's or TTI long tubes with the added bonus of having to fab up head pipes. they 100% do not work with manual transmission.

likely some bits of extra pipe, but it's a total crap shoot on the hangers. the basic architecture is very similar, so it will be close but expect some amount of work.

the tail pipes are likely the same and that's the expensive part. i'd guess you could adapt it fairly easily. if it's cheap, i'd go for it.

the early manifolds will fit and more importantly will support 400hp if that's in your future plans. the added bonus is that you can call up accurate or tti and get the stock headpipes to stab right into the existing exhaust or, even better build off of with one of their complete kits. that...

if you're gonna dump at the fender, did you consider full on fenderwell style or is tire size a limiting factor?

no, not at this time. i was more ruminating on the "where" point of lift that the pendulum swung and if there was a kind of rule of thumb that could be somewhat proven out by data or a detail analysis. it was strictly a: at "x" lift point it is considered that headers would be a worthwhile...

it wasn't covered there dick head! :p (i keed, i keed)

thanks jim, i understand entirely; as always the devil is in the details. i appreciate the response.

and that's the key! anything past a stock cam the gains are much more impressive and the argument of price for hp/tq starts to swing back toward favoring headers. jim, with your experience and analysis is there a hard break off point in lift where the for/against is a good line of demarcation...

https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/tti-shorty-headers-head-pipes.555171/ smokin' deal, imo

they look like they'd be all over the steering box or motor mounts (brackets) or just dump straight into the K. the dude is building a race car, so maybe?

spitfire/sanderson were about the only thing going and have been for as long as i know. why not make your own if you can't procure a set? you'll have the whole offseason!

that's wild! and with inflation new, entry level headers are still about the same price today!

lotta people trying to pick pepper out of fly **** here. 600hp motor loses a few hp/tq, @VOETOM shows 1/10th & 1mph if you're going from a single or a real crappy dual set up, then sure stepping it up to 2~2.5 with some good mufflers is going to be a marked improvement. but the difference...

without any interior it will be absolutely thunderous, and when you add that to being in a garage the echo can be darn near unbearable. if you haven't run the car in quite some time, you may be sensitive to how loud it seems; even more so in a closed environment. but you're spot on, some...

i had straight pipes cut at the axle on my roached out 69 barracuda. even with a 318 2bbl and manifolds it was unbearably loud; that lasted about a week till i knocked the cheapest turbo mufflers i could find on there. if you're looking for eye watering decibel levels, it really can't get much...

HUH?? what? come again? WHAT???

you came rolling up touting to be an expert, not any of us. and you know what an expert is? some asshole from out of town that nobody knows. i come at you with anecdotal evidence, the collective here already is well aware of the probabilistic evidence and the dyno charts from the magazine...

oh, you built headers? BFD, so did i and guess what? they added a nominal bump in power, only in the upper RPM with the combo that i was testing with. you don't buy shorty headers when you're trying to make big dumb power. you buy them because of fitment issues, and because you either can't...

for that set up you're not going to see massive gains between a shorty header and a 340 manifold. and honestly, a 360 or magnum manifold might be damn close as well. here's a thread from last month on the topic: Shorty Headers basically, it comes down to if you're going for headers, buy the...

the set that I made stayed 1 5/8 because the 1 7/8 was just a little too tight for my liking in the early narrow body (and my limited fab skillz), and kept the "collector" at 2.5 because of the 4spd things and stuffs. but I also wanted something that was easily serviceable. it would be quite...

I certainly agree on several points here (flow, scavenging for example) and the numbers show that the flow starts to pick up in the upper RPM range against the manifolds. I'd love to see a test with more compression and a more aggressive cam. I'd hazard a guess that it doesn't look nearly as...

@Oldmanmopar what exactly do you disagree about in my post? or are you just going back through my posts and negging me in some type of retribution for disagreeing with your point of view in another topic?

in a mild application shorties offer nothing when compared to 340 manifolds. long tubes with collectors will pick up hp & torque across the band and while the gain is not tremendous that little bump of 10% or so can convert into drivability and throttle response. with more aggressive cam...

exactly right. you can't just throw parts at it and expect each component to be an extra 20hp as stated before, it's just an air pump. select parts that make it effective and then massage the peripherals to make it efficient.