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addco bars have some of the most clunky and cumbersome install hardware and positioning. you have my sympathy because i know it was a pain in all nine assholes.

i'll show you mine if you show me yours... i totally would've put up, but mine not addco and all the stuff is detached from the frame for reasons.

well... where are the pics?

my mamma always said to be polite. but she also said them people out in the desert, they're a special kind. they're all crazier than a **** house rat.

i dunno, you AZ fellas are just a tick off center so you never know. i think it's the heat.... also, gear oil is my kryptonite.

*narrow eyes* *gags* *gagging intensifies*

i don't know how else to word this, so here goes: this is a wonderful idea and could potentially save you money, if you don't care about the quality of the components in the arm or the quality of the arm itself. i'm not all ma mopar made the best stuff since sliced bread, but having seen, held...

if you have basic mechanical skills, yeah you could tackle it. but go in knowing that it's bone crushing knuckle busting work that will slap *** wear you out. the only special tools you'll need are for the upper ball joints, but you can rent the socket. the lower control arm bushing r&r is...

a competent machine shop shouldn't have a problem rebuilding the arms. i'd 100% do the moog offset upper bushings. buy good ball joints and lower control arm bushings and tie-rods if needed. you're in this far, i'd check the pitman and idler arm as well. swaybar wise, the stock ones are rare...

pfft! that's the next guy's problem! ship it!

if he's rolling 1/2"-20 threaded bits he'll want 65 feets poundages

dorman sells studs that are a "plus 1" oversize that are specifically for this. big enough to catch, but not so big you need blow out the hole with the drill. or just a whisper of weld on there will hold 'em tight.

iffen you need new ball joints, then the most economical bestest way forward is to convert to the big joint arm. but if your joints and bushings are new-ish, the a-dapt-ors are a viable way forward. big joint arms are cheap, loaded big joint arms are available, good parts exist at a...

https://www.doctordiff.com/10.95-front-disc-brake-kit.html if you run thru the pull down options it'll give 5X4 on a plain rotor i *think* MBM and pirate jack might also offer them. the only reason i can see is to retain sbp wheels. like if you got really nice cragars or some vintage...

it used to be this was the one true way to tell, but now with the availability of SBP rotors for the 73~76 set up it can throw you for a loop. add into that the upper ball joint adapters and it could really go either way. seeing the brakes and measuring the joint is the only way to 100%...

let's see a pic of the brakes & rotor... that *should* tell us right quick. (i suspect i know what they are, but don't want to assume) in the mean time, measure the upper ball joint: the square top- land-to-land 1-59/64" is the big joint 1.809" is the small joint

i'll add to this not all 15" rims fit either! you'll definitely need to go to 15 for the bigger brakes though.

i like to box the steering mount, add a skid plate and shore up some of the perimeter welding. i've had good luck with prothane poly LCA bushings. proforge makes nice ones too and they have greaseable pins that they sell (which are a nice addition to any bushing besides stock rubber). unless...

i'm not a doctor, but i've played one on TV i am, however, three raccoons in a trenchcoat.

aren't we all?

you can bend 'em a bit. i wouldn't put any heat in it though.

something's not right there. what brand of bushing, who did the install? is the t-bar all the way home with the clip installed? blow it back apart and let's see some more pics.

and you'll need to be moving the spring perches too. or at least you should move them...

*gets the spray bottle* no! bad!

the pin only locates the coupler to the splined input shaft and prevents fore and aft movement. if that breaks you have way, way bigger problems. steering shaft to shoe pin, yeah, different story.

if you're not launching on massive slicks, doing brake stand burn outs or neutral dropping it like a slap dick teenager it'll last a long, long time. you're more likely to bust a u-joint before anything in the carrier.

a CH bigger than a 318 2bbl pushrod. (all kidding aside, i believe it to be 5/16")

i like that they're gusseted and that there's caster built in. to me the delrin bushing is whatever. i'd want to know who the ball joint is made by and what it is -- ie, easily obtained and reasonably priced should i need to replace it. it doesn't really do all that much more than a stock arm...

oh wow. super bummer on that being bone dry. bearings are mos def roached. hopefully you can salvage the gears.

exactly. exhaust all possibilities before releasing the gear oil! *gags*