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yeah, i've bought from mike's. along with woodruff mentioned up thread. both are legit and sell the good things and stuffs. if you can do a holley, you'll be able to do a carter in your sleep. or half drunk on bad vodka while watching your favorite baseball team lose. either/or, really. i'd...

if you need all that and a bag of chips, i'd go with mike's. you know you're going to get the right stuff the first time and the parts are going be top quality. and there's somebody on the end of the line to talk to. if you're looking for a little more economical route and you're alright with...

oh, that one works. it's just a little fiddly. and don't fully trust the stock gauge. and i like the tube style sender more.

where you go to buy smog, duh. i keed, i keed. it's a shop that you go to for your emissions test that you have to do every two years.

here's the link to the regulator kit: https://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=549/category_id=172/mode=prod/prd549.htm i used a generic relay from the jungle store. but their kit is fine too and not wildly overpriced. save yourself the headache and get their fuel gauge...

it will work but you'll need to add a regulator with a return or run a pump that has an internal regulator. it's slightly more nuanced than that, but there's the basics. i run a tanks inc tank with their pump and their fuel line/regulator for carb applications and it works *perfectly*. the...

i find it all fascinating. i mean, not that it makes a lick of difference for what i'm doing, but it's interesting none the less. here's a question on the 75~76 dip in power, was that in conjunction with the debut of lean burn? or was that when they went to the 8:1 compression vs. the 8.4:1?

i think it's a matter of some pendant pushing their glasses up on their nose and saying: well actually it's flow and rating are two different things and then that just became what was published. or they just installed a limiter on the air door because the feds were putting the screws to them.

pretty wild. i can understand the prototype getting all the **** hot parts what with dodge skunk works being, well, dodge skunk works and hoover's involvement. that's the third mention of the 650 TQ, which really has me scratching my head. i've pulled, handled and rebuilt my fair share of...

here's a link to what certainly appears to be an OG underhood emissions sticker https://www.exoticmotorcars.com/1979-dodge-lil-red-express-d100-adventurer-c-435.htm#details-62

that's an excellent question to which i do not know the answer. we got CAP before any body else, so it's possible that maybe there are LRE that got the pump for CA sale. i do know that CA won't let anything run without the mandated smog equip. so even if they never came with a pump, the...

i agree, the published numbers are all over the place. different sources, and almost no two are the same. there's no definitive proof one way or the other. ****, there's hardly proof on what the actual specs are of the 68 4spd cam or a bunch of the MP cams from the 70's & 80's. i'm hoping...

post #40 lists a 650cfm TQ which never existed. but let's say for the sake of confusion that it was meant as Q-jet. there again, 404 no such carb found. it also lists the E58 as 8:1 which, while true, isn't the whole story. some were 8.4:1 depending on year and motor code. i'll buy that an...

here's something of interest in a '78 sales sheet: here is a scanned EO and supplemental data sheet from CARB for 78 (issued sept 77 and revised in october) and it indicates EGR, OC & AI, and EM, which according to their key is: egr, cats and air injection, and "engine modification"...

.429/.444 268/276 is the stock 340 cam number .444/.453 276/284 is only '68 340 with manual trans

that's red flags, flashing lights and sirens. find another shop. i'd go find some GM G body guys that have LS swaps or the 70's tail dragger/donk/low rider dudes and ask them where they get their smog at, chances are whoever is doing that is a little more knowledgeable and operates a little...

i'd take a lot of the information there with a grain of salt.

@George Jets what's your source on the 484 cam? all the info, research and chry co material say that it was the 340 AT cam (268/276 .429/.444)

man... that is rough! once aluminum/pot metal gets corroded like that it's hard to bring it back. all the steel work will need to be replated as well. if you don't care about the finished appearance, i'd say maybe it's something to pursue but that would hinge strongly on what the inside...

whatever this means, but sure thing chief. i sure do pal! and don't you ever forget it!

correct, *some* 4bbl holley factory carbs did have a 4 digit date sequence, but the list number would identify it as such. 6bbl carbs are their own animal and are not pertinent to this conversation.

three digits up to 1973, four digits after

650 AVS2 will be great with that setup.

you rang?

i'd be more concerned about actually finding a tank for a 60, and if i was able to how much it would cost . pull it, drain it and inspect. it might be fine. or you might need to boil it out or clean it by another method.

if you follow this link there's a chart in the description/photo that gives the various lengths of the different stock cables. https://www.manciniracing.com/mararahethca.html you'll likely do good with a stock /6 cable hth

i believe the preferred terminology is: more better-er. please refer to the FABO style guide that was sent out via email, some traditional vernacular has been updated and abridged.

street/strip 800 toruring/cruising 650 unless you're looking for 10ths and a few more mph in the 1/4 it's going to run no different on the street between a 650 and 750

anything from 625 to 750-ish is going to be more than adequate. TQ's and Q-jets were 800+ and they came factory. the avenger and slayer are not only different CFM, but the offer different details: the avenger has 4 corner idle, with metering blocks with jets on the primary and 2ndary and easy...