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probably against the rules

MY cousin ran the stock two barrel over the eddy for his late model, one of the open wheel guy's said on the dyno the stock made more hp, enough to make up for the extra weight up high given faster lap times. Try both what ever gives better lap times go with that.

I don't get that why wouldn't it? 340 comes with decent heads and cr the two main things you require in a good shortblock, everything else to get there is basically a bolt on. We basically know you can get over 2hp per cfm, on a healthy street car it's more like 1.7-1.9 hp:cfm say 1.8 hp:cfm as...

Here's the dyno of that 340, stock on the left fully modded on the right, modded gains from 3000-6200 rpms (everywhere dyno'd) and a 50 lbs-ft gain right at 3000 rpm, by the looks of it probably some gains under 3000 rpm. Phase 1: Stock 340 baseline, Chrysler electronic ignitionPhase 2: Replace...

Here's a 340 similar to yours and makes 392hp @ 5700 rpm & 411 tq @ 4400 rpm https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/mopp-0102-1970-340-high-performance-mill-dyno/

I don't get this gear for the highway, every time someone ask about gears, be fine if the OP said I'm gonna do a lot of highway or highway is important to me, he said the odd time he might do a 30 minute jaunt down the highway, I'd go 3.73 gears a 318 will love them, 3.55 ain't gonna shave off...

3.55 x 1.45 (2nd gear) = 5.14, 2nd with 3.55 is the same with 5.13 in 3rd, basically gonna feel like you lost first gear and gained a 0.69 OD.

Dropping down to 3.23 or 3.55 from 5.13 is 1 & 1/2 to 2 full ratio loss, even though 5.13 over geared I don't think your gonna like losing that much pulling power it's gonna be pretty noticeable. Especially since you don't care about the highway.

Seems like you don't mind gears, it's way over geared now but the lowest I'd go 3.91-4.10, if your gonna do some drag racing gear for optimal 1/4 or 1/8 which ever one you'll run. tire diameter x rpm / 336 x mph = gear ratio

More info about the cam and heads would make guesstimating easier and more accurate. Full cam specs and what level of porting, cfm cc etc..

Do the price is right and guess 501 hp and you win :)

My guess around 500 hp. Depends on how well ported the heads are.

All depends what your trying to do, performance wise I feel you should run like 2 gears deeper than people with a similar built 360 generally would, so a 360 like yours generally gonna be 3.23/3.55 so to me 3.73/3.91. If highway matters more or best 1/8, 1/4 mile or best 0-60 mph or 0-100-0 mph...

Here's a bunch of 383 articles

Could guesstimate cam size by measuring cam lift and along with idle quality. But deal with tuning First and go from there.

Mopar Performance Issues isn't my favourite, guess small blocks would be, this one, racing and each of the engines generally talk about similar topics why I suggested them to be together, plus this is the performance thread and barely gets any performance talk figured moving it would help it...

is there away for me to move it?

guess i didn't start at the top lol

looked but didn't see it, thought there was one

To me "Mopar Performance Issues" and "Mopar Racers Forum" should be at the top of "Mopar Technical Forum" and "Mopar General Discussions" should be where the racers forum is, Mopar Performance Issues don't get used much where it is and should be closer where performance discussions are. Just a...

Pretty much any engine has untap power waiting (head flow) for a few basic mods to wake it up. aka carb/intake exhaust tune and cam. Cam choice mainly limited by heads, cr, stall and gears.

There's some 383 builds / hop up in these links There might be more here https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/magazine-builds.468551/

You also got to factor different engine sizes with similar performance the smaller one needs more rpm and overall gearing probably negating any mpg advantage. Plus why do people generally want diesels most will say torque, but really cause it makes peak power at a very low 2500 rpm which allows...

The smaller engine usually does get better but generally by a mpg or two intown maybe slightly more on highway, if you bring the smaller engines NA power to that of the larger engine bet mileage would be more similar. i always thought mpg is how efficient the engine is a part throttle to make...

Highway driving is easier to increase if that's where you spend major of time clock at lot of miles a year gearing lockup OD etc... could be worth while improvements, intown is a different story unless it's little encono box most cars i've driven gets mpg in the teens my Avenger RT gets 19-22...

Really what's the OP gonna do with this? Not saying he can't get a bit better than factory, take the 360 which is good work truck engine from 71-2002 there little difference in intown mpg throughout the years and a bit more on the highway mainly down to OD and aerodynamics and even the Hemi...

Small bore with long stroke probably has a slight advantage but is it enough to worry about. Your building a truck engine so idle-3500 rpm or so is what's most important, to build NA power in that range would be mainly be from displacement, VE% and CR obviously anything to increase efficiency...

Depends what we're talking here, actually recoup the money spent plus a sizeable savings in a reasonable time frame? I'd say that's generally a waste of time, say you spend $ 3000 a year in gas and spend $ 3000 to save 20% that would take 5 years just to recoup, and 20% over a well tuned engine...

Had to go to work, I’ll answer ya later.

Like how name calling and belittling is always your 1st step. I Wasn’t trying to piss you off. So what I disagree with ya, I guess you are the only one allowed to disagree and everyone just has to take it as gospel.