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It seems like some of the magazine guys made the natural transition from magazine media to youtube type media.

Some act like it's their job, funny thing is they seem very intimate with all his content and his life story, I know more about tony through the haters more than anything from the few videos of his I've seen.

There's really no plus of a 318 with 360 crank over a 360. But built similar they will make similar power and torque since there now fairly close to the same size.

Smaller carb doesn't equal less air and fuel it's just more restrictive.

Don't some mill some off the manifold flange to gain room ? Angle mill it ? Not sure kind of remember people doing/saying that. I wouldn't do any engine or suspension moving to make it fit, what are we talking power wise an hp or two, I know all the little gains add up, but I wouldn't do...

There was a manifold shootout a long time ago in one of the mopar magazine I think, they found one of the magnums and one of the 340's gave the best result, can't remember which side was which, but there wasn't a huge difference between the 340 & Magnums and even the 360 ones too. Here's...

Since the six is ready to go, I drop in the /6.

I'd agree if he didn't have to pull the six anyways, so I don't see the swap should hinder his decision since either engine he has to do one. If he feels staying with six fills his needs and don't see a v8 swap in his future then I'd say go for it.

Wasn't directed at you, you've given a balanced opinion. I find people give the advice what they would do from their perspective, not what they would do if they had the wants, skill, money, desire, situation of the OP. Why a lot of Eg. 360/408 guy's dismiss any other choices cause it's about...

Idc what the OP runs as long he's gonna be happy with his decision. I'd probably pick neither and go with a running 5.2/5.9 Magnum with 4bbl and mild cam. A performance /6 is a labour of love not a wise economic power to $$$$ and is severely handicap in the NA power department to say otherwise...

Probably a NA 2.0l has more power potential than a /6, at best you'll probably have the power of a modern peppy NA 4 cylinder. If that is ok build away. Do the six cause you want and odd ball peppy concept (dare to be different kind of thing even though more /6 A bodies were built) not cause you...

It's up to you but if your pulling and rebuilding an engine swap is not that big of a deal compared.

In your 1st post you said you plan rebuilding the /6, or you mean just going over it while in the car?

To me it mainly comes down to the heads, non ported I doubt you could make 200 hp with the /6, where the 273 heads could easily make 300+ hp which would take a fairly wild build to get that out of a /6, I doubt a /6 could make more than 350 hp Max effort NA on gas with every last hp rung out of it.

I think the main issue that a person needs to know about a /6 before deciding to hop one up is the limitation of the head. Unported you'll be lucky to make 200 hp I bet a good chunk less. Now if your willing to port 1 hp per cid is in reach, they can do 250-300+ NA HP but more than likely most...

Depends on what you want, average hot rodded na /6 probably get you 175-225 hp, V8 has way more hp potential (cylinder heads) even the 273. A warmed over 273 (225-275 hp) can make more power than most heavily built /6.

I like this one https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/426-cube-318-poly-can-outgun-hemis/

Here an article I found on porting poly heads Guy goes from 187 to 256 cfm Poly 318 Cylinder Head Porting - Poly318.com

What do you mean cause of weight? The short block is basically same as LA, it's the heads and exhaust fitment that's the issue.

Another thing you could do is more stall so to start in/nearer to the main powerband, go with lower 1st & 2nd gears 2.74/1.54 vs 2.45/1.45, or swap in a OD tranny get all that. I'm sure these are more than you want do, but if you got the cash and desire it will get the most out of the 273.

The goal of more tq doesn't help figure out optimal gearing, for pure acceleration a continuous variable tranny that kept you at peak hp would be ultimate solution, best we can do is best average, for the OP being able to get into the main powerband at average intown road speeds would be my...

It's not really about bumping up tq, it's about getting into main powerband easier say 3500-5500 rpm, 2.93 takes about 38 mph in 1st just to get to 3500 rpm, 3.91 gets there at 28 mph a more reasonable speed, to just enter the powerband.

if you don't care about highway 3.73 then, I'd go 3.91 get a full ratio over the 2.93

It's not like down the road it can be swap back if someone chooses your doing a good job, people butcher some of these cars just by swapping a mopar engine in badly or making a drag car, not like it's a rare hemi cuda or similar. It's just one less true mopar out there but better than the car...

It's your car do what cha like, LS makes more sense then when people use to swap a 350s into everything. I'm not a huge fan, to me the reason to build a mopar is to do a mopar engine, to me your car is just another Chevy now :) Still be a cool car when done.

If you like that one here's a dyno of an engine masters competition 273 making 473 hp @ 7900 rpm. Done by some of the members think Hemirunner/IQ52. If I remember right it's sleeved and bored to 3.75, ported indy x heads and 250 ish cam.

Not mine, here's the article Testing the Mopar 273 Power Pak on the Dyno

Mechanically valve flow and or oil pressure and or 6500 rpm whatever comes first, powerband wise probably somewhere between 4500-5500 rpm wherever power drops off dramatically.

Here's a dyno of a stock commando, makes peak power at 5100 rpm there would be little reason to go to far past 5000-5500 rpm, or less if valve float is happening. Edit" for some reason I thought your post said you had a commando :)

I'd buy it if I was worth 100's of million, you also need the hat and glasses when you go cruising :)