(Warm) Air intake hose

The low to intermediate circuits of your carb are calibrated to work at a prescribed inlet air temperature.
In your air-filter housing are a temp sensor, a mixing valve, and two large hoses; 1) the cold air duct going to in front of the core support, and 2) the other to a scoop on the exhaust manifold.
That system is designed to mix hot air from off the manifold with cold air coming in thru the cold-air pipe, to the create the specified temperature..
Can you defeat the system?
Yes but, yur gonna have to recalibrate the main metering system.
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
If you defeat the system, without re-calibration:
The carb will run lean when the ambient temp is below the set point, and rich when ambient is above the specified set-point. But usually not enough to hurt the engine.
>Around town, you may never notice a difference, because the system drops out of operation when the manifold vacuum drops, due to a large throttle opening.
>But on the hiway at a steady throttle opening, fuel economy will suffer, unless the ambient is at or near the set-point.
I forget the setpoint just now (I'm getting older) but I imagine it would be, at some logical and easy to maintain temp like maybe 100*F; I'm guessing.
the most noticeable sign of lean-running is
> a tip-in sag, aka a hesitation, from a dead-stop.
> lousy gas-mileage, due to the throttle having to be opened further than necessary to get the fuel, to get enough power, to attain cruising speed.
Other signs could be;
> overheated sparkplugs
> burned exhaust valves
>possible coolant overheating
> possible pre-ignition, leading to detonation, sometimes ending in broken sparkplug insulators.
> an overheated exhaust manifold leading to cracking.