Recent content by 67Dart273

No in fact you must jumper IGN1 (run) and IGN2 (bypass) together in order to get ignition power to start the thing, because now you have an ignition system not using a ballast. What was the closest point to the key switch you checked? If you don't have it at the bulkhead, and don't...

Yah, but under boost is when you need the crankcase to be vented the worst. I'm thinking you need to build a road draft setup and put BIG breathers on the rocker covers.

LOL I cannot imagine dealing something that big without power tilt/ trim. I bought one of those aftermarket units for my boat. It does work but they are a POS Completely poorly engineered. Because of the way the unitized (china?) hydraulic unit works, the leverage is all wrong...

I thought that rang a sad bell. Claudia Jennings, killed in a head on crash, evidently of her own making.

By the way, in my 'yute' I owned a 69 383 4 speed RR and then a 70 440-6 4 speed, 3.54 Dana. Gawd I wish I had that 70 back This was when it was new, the original owner and still a friend of mine. He is 78-80, I am 76. We are both radio amateurs and still friends. We have been up...

IGN1 is often times blue but not always, it is hot ONLY in the run position. It goes dead during cranking or when key is in ACC IGN2 is hot the same as the "start" contact, but they are two separate switch contacts/ circuits. IGN2 is often brown, feeds out through the bulkhead, to...

MAN Rob it is good to hear something from you.

That certainly could be. The breaker points might get a little corroded, on the older one, so be ready to clean them up. Condensers are ALWAYS suspect. Regardless of what the internet says, there is no way to test them without a high voltage (at least 100V) cap tester for leakage...

If you can find OEM coils that have been replaced (don't know when they were made) they are almost always OK. There has been discussion, but I've never seen a good workable procedure--to recoat the cracked coils with epoxy. In testing, I've found a few cracked open coils that had...

If you are SURE about the pickup coil reading, I'd replace the pickup. The ohms stated varies. I would guess the variance is due to loose specs and import parts. But that far off is WAY off. Don't know what all you have tested, here are a few: VERY important that the ECU is...

There's always been a "preference argument" between shift balls and ball sizes vs T handle, and of course pistol grips. I had a 70 440-6RR, second owner, and LOVED that grip. For some reason I liked it way better than T handles. On an aside, the original owner, who I met in Navy...

I am recently turned 76. I can still crank up through an 18/ 20 but I have to use both hands and "get up on it." The 35's are what are tough. They generally have a poor compression release, but they don't seem to work well and often don't work at all. Both my shoulder rotators have...

Don't count me as an expert on gearcases, some random thoughts On the older ones with the horizontal split on the very lower half, as I said, there is at least 8 ways to get water in, and a machining misfit between the two could be an issue I guess 1,2--the filler and drain plugs 3...the...

Found it. Here is the thread where I'm whining about junk coils https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/arguing-with-egag-over-outboard-mag-coils.495858/

This is what the Bombardier coils looked like I bought off ebay, supposedly the real deal. Just like the china ones they put out a FRACTION of the spark energy of good ones