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Here's the sure grip carrier and the NOS parts I have for it.

I did the exact same mod on my '66 Barracuda except that I didn't take the fuel gauge apart (as in pulling the face plate) but instead, I drilled a hole in the gauge housing to get access to sterilizing the voltage limiter. I posted some photos here somewhere a couple of years ago. Test to see...

We could use better photos of all three. The shifter location and the output spline count would be important to know, along with any internal/external problems they might have. The silver one looks to have had the input shaft partially cut off. in '67 there were two versions. The 273 used one...

My understanding is that jeweled movements don't use oil. Oil eventually gets gummy and prevents free movement that clock parts need. It's when the points stick shut that the coil melts down.....sorta like what happens when a stock IVR does that with the gauges.

No, it's 12 volt. It's not a continuous current draw. It has a coil inside that acts like a solenoid. It snaps open a set of spring loaded points that make the gears turn. Once the points close again, it gets another blast of 12V to open the points again. In between when the points are open...

i don't know about that. With the 100+ 7 1/4's I've had apart, I've never seen the ring bolts sheared. It's almost always the spiders and side gears that fail. On the sure grip models, it's more common that the pinion and/or pinion bearings that fail first.

My ring gear has 3/8" bolts.

A-bodies ended in 1976. F-bodies started then in their place.

yes

If it's truly an Aspen, they were only made from 1976-1980.

That may be true, but, I can't say for sure. The 2.93 set I have has an early ring gear number (2070480) and a much later pinion number (3507746)! Here's the NOS Mopar parts I have.....all the bearings for the pinion gear, carrier, and axle shafts, the seals for the axle shafts and pinion...

Have someone work both the inside and outside door release while you watch the action on the latch. Sometimes you can manually move the linkage a bit further to make the latch release.

Yes, but, it will cause premature failure of the leaf spring bushings.

For "factory" 14 X 7 wheels? What did those come on?

For the 22" radiator in the '65-6 models, the upper shroud is 2524501 and the lower is 2524508.

I have just about everything in NOS for that rear end....at least according to my inventory ledger. I'd have to put my hands on the actual part to verify. I show a 2.93 ring and pinion, the carrier bearings, the pinion bearings, side gears and spiders (for non-sure grip) axle bearings and seals...

That's the '68 To '76 version.

I think I have an NOS ring and pinion. I'll have to check to see which ratio it is though.

Yup, all part of the lower door hinge.

Get grade 8. If you plan to flip the engine up side down, get longer lower bolts and nuts and washers to match.

That neck bulges forward.

You might check with Brad Faxon manuals. He sometimes has reproduction factory assembly manuals that can help on those parts and how they fit.

Try PST too. There may be others, I haven't looked lately. Big blocks need all the extra handling improvements you can make.

Good deal for somebody. The upper control arms are worth that.

You can use a '64 V8 push button trans too, if you swap your '65 valve body parts into it. Good Luck!

Do yourself a favor and buy a pair of new 1.04" torsion bars for that application.

The bell crank that attaches to the outside handle can come loose too, causing slop in the linkage. Check to make sure the screw is tight. Also, the plastic clips can wear out causing that same slop in the linkage.

I've been able to remove and reuse those rivets. I use a real sharp small chisel to drive under the head of the rivet and work it up and out. The rivet is splined and the splines are slightly curved, so, the rivet comes out with a slight twist to it. Use some locktite to re-install it.

If you need all the guts, get '64-5 2dr HT doors. Some '66 parts and '64-4 doors of other body styles are the same too, but, I'd get the earlier 2dr HT ones to be sure you'd get all the correct parts. Someone is bound to have some rusted out doors that still have good internal parts.

Why did they recall it?