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Use it or loose it what I was told. I write stuff down now. If I don’t make a too do list, I do nothing. My library still yet grows.

Nice additional info. That helps a lot. Try the LD-340!

The fellas are on target there. We are missing a bit of information. Here is what I’m looking for; Camshaft duration @050 Car Weight Gear ratio & tire size

Right! Another way to get there (390 cubes) is the 4.00 arm in a bored out 318. Add a good head and a cam! Hummmm, a 360 crank @ 3.58 into a 340 block bored to 4.100 for a 378.12 or a 6.2. Add a good head & cam! Right! 3.58 (360 crank) into a bored out 318. Might as well go .030 over...

Have you taken note of that bore and stroke combo?

This crap annoys me.

Yep! Sometimes a manufacturer will spec an ohm resistance for there gauge. It doesn’t make sense to us but for them, you have to purchase there material so they make the money of everything. This way you just can’t run out and grab a generic or manufactures sending unit and be back up and...

If that’s what you think…. OK!

And on with the thread as scheduled!

Bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla….. You add in your two cents and get push back, then cry about it. What did you expect? Then you stoop down to sexual remarks out of know where. Yeaaaaaaa, OK. Shows yourself really well and where your at. Excellent job. I’ll belittle you in person if you want! I...

Biggest bore, shortest stroke possible. Not in my wheel house stuff. But would a work truck that WORKS due? Then I would just be the most stoke I can get in the block do that makes sense for the intended rpm usage. In other words, I don’t see a need for a 4.15 crank in a 440 inch f the stock...

Go to the bedroom or bathroom and clog the Dolphin for a while. Click the below for help. Then eat a snickers candy bar. Perhaps you’ll calm down afterwards? https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/omg.446298/

The same answer applies really. You want to add bore size? Or stroke or whatever. But sticking with bore size, 1.3 sq in will add, let’s just say, 5 HP on a stock engine. Add a cam and retest, it’s now a 15 hp difference. Add cylinder heads, let’s say, OOTB Edelbrocks, that’s 15 more? 25 more...

Because sometimes there is a weight break at a low CID that you can take advantage of. This is an unanswerable question due to the near endless amount of combinations. If you tested this idea at the same cubic inch then you would also have to try the various strokes. Then there is every part...

What’s the B&S combo?

A better than average build with a reground cam? W/3.55’s? Not happening. Not possible. Speak with Oregon cams. They’ll set you up with something along the lines of a cam of 226@050 with more lift. If you choose an OEM AVS, you’ll need the MoPar dual plane intake which if it’s actually found...

An electric pump for the mechanical pump was the old way of doing things to ensure the mechanical pump would always have fuel. The fuel pump also acted as a pressure regulator. Fuel pressure regulators came in later when the fuel pumps introduced more pressure for more volume. Currently, I use...

A slight increase in duration affords a good jump in torque without the need of extra stall in the converter and a few hundred more rpm’s with often not adversely effecting gas mileage.

Visit a car meet and find a MoPar club rather than a local mechanic since most are not of an age where they understand a carburetor or the ignition system. Much less one where it’s been altered and upgraded. If a local shop has an older fella you might be in luck.

Where are you in Ohio? There are a bunch of members in that state and surrounding areas.

Hooker headers, excellent start. What I mean is, dual exhaust with an H pipe or X pipe and what size are the pipes? Then muffler brand. No worries, no that important at the moment.

I like this! ^^^^^^^ The duration @.050 is 241*’s. A 3.23 gear is a good bit to low. 3.91’s at a minimum. What size tire is in the back? What ignition do you have? What is the initial timing at? Is it a MoPar performance distributor? What octane are you using? Do you have a tachometer in the...

Only because it’s newer. Ether drill the passage or like in the case of most serious heads, use pushrod oiling. Rockers for this set up can be purchased for standard Edelbrock heads. Easily done for a LA and any serious roller will need work done to the blocks oiling passages anyway. OK @...

I’ll speak up and throw my 2 cents in. Pittsburghracer is a stand up, honest and trustworthy guy in my book who does excellent work. He is so worth YOUR time.

No, I’d call it a destroked 360. (345 cid IIRC) The problem with this 360 crank into a 318 is pistons. Not the displacement. Yes That would be fine as well. This is one place I’d take advantage of. Increasing the engine size over a modern car. Be it the stroker route or just an over bored...

He often writes and asserts convoluted ideas and what he thinks are facts. He is a keyboard warrior and thinks he knows what he’s talking about. The only person I put on ignore multiple times because I get tired of his ridiculous idiotic statements. I could spend all day correcting him over and...

Yeaaaaa, I own one. (E body)

Holy crap!!!!!!!!! Built similar but held back. What a crock of ****! I’m freaking believable. What a pile! Back on ignore. The only one ever to make the grade out of stupidity & consistently consistent with it.

I think the 383 has the goods over the 360 to be a more powerful engine and a better street or strip performer. Weight of the power plant is of some concern if the OE must be retained. Once the OE heavy iron is dumped for the aftermarket performance parts, it’s the big block. What would 225lbs...

WOW! Both cars are heavy!