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You know Bob, this could be a combination of all these adjustments needing to be done. As I'm sure you know, they all add up, an 1/8th here, a 1/16th there etc ...

Great attitude! I am following along and it definitely seems the engine is not aligned properly in the engine bay. I don't think its the headers so I wouldn't bend them up yet. Here's something else to check I was thinking that maybe the transmission mount is bad or the crossmember is dropped...

If you put the shims between the motor mount and the K member, the angle of the block will change as it goes up in height. It should actually be greater than 1/8 where the steering coupler goes into the steering box. I'm sure you know this but loosen the bolts of the motor mount bracket attached...

And all along I thought " Hoover" referred to the way he sucked back the smoke....

uuh Bob... The engineers were also pot smoking hippies..LOL !!!

Absolutely! Our old Mopars were never supposed to last this long. The manufacturers wanted them replaced every 3 years.

Hey azaustin, Its not that hard , you just have to take your time. Some suggestions if you decide to do it yourself. 1. leave the covers out in the sun for a bit to soften them up. 2. Use some plastic over the foam and slide the covers over the plastic. (got this trick from a professional...

Yup! The welds are ****, especially around the steering box mount. Get in a stock mopar, have someone crank the steering wheel hard left or right and look at the steering box. You can actually see the deflection happening!

Ok, try this. Unbolt the driver's side engine mount. Use a bar or an engine hoist and see if you can move the engine to a position that clears the header tubes. If the headers now clear, maybe you can shim between the motor mount and the K-Frame to get the clearance you need. Your problem is...

Any history of accidents on the car? How do the frame rails look? What engine mounts are you using? Without pics it seems the engine is sitting more to driver side than normal thus reducing clearance.

A quick test is to use a 9 volt battery . Connect leads across gauge terminals and look for full pointer deflection. This is a simple test that will confirm the gauge is working but do not leave the leads connected as it will burn out the gauge. Calibration is another process.

Do you have the gauges out of the cluster?

Hi Alan, My 68 Cuda has the original hood. It may have cutouts in the substructure for them but definitely not in the surface sheetmetal. Here a pic of a 1968 383 Formula S hood.

Alan, the 68 Hood mounted signal indicators were an option so hoods were produced without the holes. I did not know the 67 vent windows were the only year with locks!

Would these be the same transmissions used in The Little Red Wagon Wheel standers?? Mark Worman of Graveyard cars built one packing a bed mounted Hemi.

Wouldn't surprise me at all. After all, Chrysler did put a Hemi on an Air Raid siren

Agree! 68 deluxe interior trim, 1969 console covers, 68-Dash pads, 68 383-S hood callouts, Marker lights etc..etc,.. Major alarm bells on this one!!

Trying to understand your question. You can't install the outside track from the passenger side on the driver side. the release handle would be facing inside rather than outside rendering it unusable. You could install the passenger tracks on the driver seat but the seat back release would be...

Same for A-Body. See the pic. Note the seat release arm position on the left track for driver side. Its on the right side for passenger seat.

Welcome to the site !!! No problem to do. You will need one of these. Here's mine, assembled and ready to install. Here it is , installed.

Check the holes in the tracks that you used when bolting the tracks back on to the seats. As A56 said, the track release handle is on the outside track

Hey Paul, Is this a new starting motor Have you checked the pinion shaft on the starter motor to see if it is sticking there How are the teeth on the pinion gear

That finish looks great Ron! I'm of the same mindset as my car is never out in the rain either. Here's mine.. Damp chamois as well to clean then 3m glazes and McGuire's wax to finish, all by hand. I don't think I would get away with this on a daily driver though when mud and other...

Well, having driven both the 340 and 383 Formula S fast backs, there was not a lot of difference , the 340 handled a little better. Both cars had 3.23 suregrips. What really woke up the 383 I drove was when fender well headers were added. (all that was available back then) Now that was a...

I'd like to see the #1 and # 2 scenarios as well.

No problem! You are on the best site in the world for A- body info. Ask away if you need help with anything. Most on here will help you out, you may run into a few negative comments here and there but pay no attention to it. Get used to the search function in the top right of the screen as...

Very nice car!

That Dart is nice!!

65 dartman is correct about the adjustment but don't do it until you have determined if your hinges are good or need to be repaired/replaced. If the hinges are bad it will be a temporary fix at best. Remember, this is also a safety issue and adjusting a door latch incorrectly can affect how...

Interesting!. I am a strict amateur when it comes to crank specs and performance. I would have thought that a crank would be more susceptible to deflection at higher RPM due to less material in it and therefore less reliable at higher rpm. I know this is an over simplification but I'm...