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What are you running on the cuda

Rear 255/70/15 Front 215/70/15

Update: i took the pedal assembly out and the bushings were shot and had sand in them from the blaster… :mad: swapped out for new rebuilt pedal assembly, works great. Thanks guys.

More photos

I know this has been asked a million times but im not finding a straight answer. I have vision wheels 15x7 4.25”bs on fron and 15x8 on rear. I got the front tires free and bought the rears myself but im having clearance issues on the front fenders and the rears are way too tight for comfort. I...

i agree definitely under dash somewhere

Love mine!

Hey guys looking for some advice on what to do about my brakes dragging. Ive narrowed the issue down to the clutch pedal. Seems that when you have the clutch pressed And then step on the brakes, if you let off the brakes, the pedal stays in place, for the most part. However if you aren’t on the...

Got some comparison pictures between the promax plates and the originals.

Also it was a suggestion, not a requirement to have a clean running sixpack. If he opens them up and they haven’t been touched? Great! But lets say his engine wants more fuel in the outboards at WOT? He’s stuck with what he has or modifying his plates. Worst case scenario you drill it too big...

When you have better options out there you might as well use them. Factory plates that have been tuned/modified cannot be tuned back to factory because you are physically removing material, so it will never run correctly. At least not from engine to engine. You have no idea what kind of engine...

Im working on my sixpack setup right now too. Heres an honest truth about most sixpacks. They’ve all been fiddled with or touched at some point. Most notoriously is the fuel distribution plates inside the outboard carbs. Notice how they do not have metering blocks? Under the bowls of each is...

Looking for a six pack air cleaner base. can have the front guard plate or not.

UPDATE: Guys thanks for all the help! I went back and read some old forums and realized what i had done. The large black wire is the acc. Circuit not the ground. Oops. Everything is working!

I got the lights sorted out but currently still have two issues. No power to Acc. Circuit. All three fuses for that circuit aren’t hot( no power). Turn signals aren’t working? Have flashers installed.

Swapped the gauges out for licensed mopar restoration gauges that use a solid state limiter. The new fuel gauge has no IVR points

UPDATE: i found out that since the car was originally a column shift car it had a light in the column for the PRNDL facia :BangHead: i feel dumb. So that orange should be there if you have that. So now i need to figure out which one of these other wires is the Acc. I see that theres two black...

Its a 71 harness too, just a rallye harness. The only cuda parts are the dash frame and cluster housing. All electrical is 71’

Thats the thing, the cluster itself has a 71’ board on the back so it should work fine.

Hey guys, I've installed a brand new harness from Year One (h&m electric) in my 1971 Dodge Demon and it has the rallye cluster. The issue is when I turn the key on the dash lights come on and cannot be dimmed. If you unplug the accessory circuit it works as normal and you can dim the lights...

UPDATE:I may not be able to tinker with it untill this weekend, ive been working 10-12hr shifts at work, hang tight guys.

EDIT: I realize I resurrected such an ancient post but I didn’t really see much about this in the first place so... here we are. Yeah their clutch rod suggested location seems a bit too far up on the pedal arm. This, for me resulted in hardly any clutch pedal travel at all. Im thinking of...

I have one on my 1971 Demon. The fender does pose a bit of an issue m. A little massaging will help. Im still trying to get the geometry right. The Wilwood cylinder provided has only 1.5” of travel so its relying on good geometry on the clutch pedal mount. Ill take pictures once i get it right...

UPDATE: installed the ground cable and... what’do ya know! EVERYTHING WORKS! I also added a ground cable to the back of the rallye cluster and i can say that also helped the dash lights out, definitely not flickering like they had before. Thanks for everyone’s help! You guys really are the...

UPDATE: i went to the store and purchased a ground strap to connect the battery to car body. Wont have time until Sunday to see if it helps with the issues. Thanks everyone for the input, helps straighten out my head...

The power probe is both a multimeter and a testlight in one. Regardless i think you might be on to something with the body not being grounded. I have a strap to the engine but nothing direct to the body. Ill try that too. The car hasnt been on the road since 2012 from what i can tell, the...

I’ve probed multiple locations on the body that should give me good ground readings. Including one of the screws holding the dimmer to the floor. The results are the same regardless of location. Im using a “Power Probe” tool. Very nifty little device. Allows you to supply power or ground to any...

Hey guys im new to the forum, ive read many threads on headlight issues and dimmer switch problems and i have checked those components already. The car is a 1971 Demon sizzler with a 340 swapped in, 4 speed as well. Ive been putting together a rallye dash and ive purchased new harnesses from...