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As I said.....keep the p/up wires separate from the coil neg wire & HT leads. If you look at the MSD 6 box [ & others ], the p/up wires exit the box on their own...& at the other end of the box from where the coil wires exit. They did that for a reason..... Similarly, on modules such as HEI &...

George gets it....

Big carb guys: Did you read what the OP said: Chall, 3.23 gears, street driving. There is a guy floating around on the net with a 289 Ford that has a lawn mower carb on it, gets up to 75 mph. Wonder how many cfm THAT carb is, 15, 20?

Using a coil with high pri resistance results in less spark energy, all else being equal. If the module will work with a coil that has 0.6 ohm pri resistance, I would find an E core that has ~0.6 ohm pri. They are more efficient than canister coils. There is a reason GM was able to run 0.080"...

It is a good idea to twist the p/up wires, but not mandatory. Check for p/up air gap, should be 0.008". Make sure there is an air gap for each reluctor tip. Contact between p/up & rel tip results in no spark on that cyl. Keep the p/up wires away from: coil - wire, tach wire, high tension leads...

Well Turk, if you are not reading what I say, & then posting bull ****....that makes you a bullshitter....

I stopped adding additives a long time ago..... I figured the oil companies know how to....make oil.....& if an additive was needed....they would add it.

Turk, Post # 106. If YOU were paying attention, I made no mention of T slot length....or width.

No wonder Holleys run rich. Carter carbs DO run a restriction to the T slot. Carter called it the 'Economizer' [ & patented it ] for obvious reasons. In many TQs I have checked, it varies from 0.046" to about 0.052". Another name for this restriction is the Idle Down Channel. In the Ruggles QJ...

What is in post #34.....I stated back in post #6.

The first thing I would do is get rid of one of the fuel pumps. Mech pumps are not designed to pull fuel through another pump. I would keep the elec pump & bypass the mech pump. There is no reason to have two pumps for the HP level of this engine.

Some ignorance about idle timing on this thread. 25* with a mild cam. The engine in question has well over 200* @ 050 duration on the intake. It has 9.3:1 CR. Consider this engine: 10.75:1 CR. 197* @ 050 intake duration. Note that, all else being equal, a higher CR reduces the amount of idle...

Putting a 360 crank in a 318 block will give you more low end tq. If 318 heads are used, hp peak will be at a correspondingly lower rpm. If more low/mid range tq is all you require, then a good move. You might be able to grind down the mains on the 360 crank, depending on where the oil holes are.

Maybe the lifter bore bushes are not perpendicular to the cam. Side loading, post #6.

The gap is going to depend on how powerful the ign system is. A turbo or blown engine is going to be better off with a CD ign system, such as the MSD 6,7 boxes etc. The dedicated ign coils that can only be used with these CD ign systems pack the ign punch needed with these engines.

First thing I would check: does the offset on the lifter line up with the side of the lobe that is damaged. If so, that could point to edge loading. That can be made worse by the lifter being loose[r] in the bore ; also the roller having too much play in the brgs [ or bush ]. All of these...

Turk, When you LEARN how an air bleed works, & how a HP number is produced, then you might be able to preach to others, most of whom are more knowledgeable than you...which wouldn't be that hard gauging from the BS you spew on this website. And how many patents do you have???????

If you run solid lifters, you can NEVER get two problems that hyd lifters can get: - they won't pump up & lose power - they won't collapse internally causing noise & power loss.

Use a 1/8" NPT plug. You can also drill a 1/8" hole & let the fluid drain. After draining, use a 1/8" pop rivet + silicon to seal the hole.

If you want to reduce the prod angle & the amount of lift that is lost, you could use sol lifters. They should be shorter because they do not have the internal hyd mechanism. Just lash them tight, 0.006-8" at operating temp.

I live in a hot climate & use 10w/60 oil. On a cold winters day, it flows like a '10' oil to get to the engine components quickly. On a hot 40*+ C day, when I come off the freeway with a heat soaked engine, I have 30 psi at idle.......not 10.....

There you go...... Direct from Holley...... Since they make the carbs, maybe, maybe just maybe, they know how their carbs work..... Air bleeds: 'DECREASNG the size of the main air bleeds....will pull MORE fuel creating a richer fuel/air mixture'. A smaller MAB also starts the system earlier [...

Make sure the met rod pistons are free to move up & down in their bores. As you load the engine, the piston springs should push the pistons UP so that the thin section [ enrichening ] of the m/rods are in the jets. Could be a broken spring, rare.

To answer the original question, changing only the carb from a 2 to 4bbl [ & a 4bbl intake ], I agree with the others about 15-20 hp. Very little if any benefit at the lower end. However, using a high signal carb that has annular pri boosters like the Edel 500 AVS2 would would probably add some...

I see the ignorance of Newbomb Turk rises to the top in post #107 like cream rising to the top. Larger main air bleeds will lean the mixture, not richen it. Same dope blames the carb he has on the dyno because he does not have the jetting parts on hand to jet it. It's the carb's fault! As I...

You have not given much info, to add to above. [1] If it has been a long time since the points have been checked/adjusted, then the ign timing will have retarded due to the points rubbing block wearing. [2] Carb choke adjustment [3] Same deal with the carb if it has a lot of mileage on it. Worn...

This could be many things, but I think more likely electrical [ ign ]. If points ign, check gap. Check dist cap & rotor for cracks, arcing. If elec ign, check p/up air gap. No gap or too big a gap can cause backfires. If the vac adv is used, after high mileage the p/up wires break from constant...

First, You must test the coil resistance with a DVM the ign off [ no power to the coil ]. If it reads open cct under this condition, then the coil is bad. Touch the meter leads together to make sure the meter goes to zero or close to zero [ meter is working ]. Secondly, you will not get an...

You can use the original shifter [ shift knob is a black ball with s/s inserts { buttons } each side, right? ]. I have done it. I always liked the knife/through/butter feel of that shifter. I used that early cable shifter on TWO cars that had the later linkage shift. It requires some creativity...

Having a zero angle will cause rapid U joint wear because there is no relative movement of the U joint components & all the wear is concentrated in one section.