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I looked, but, I don't seem to have any. Layson's lists reproduction lenses on their website. Kinda pricey, but, other lenses I've gotten from them have been of good quality. Good luck!

The manual console is '69, but, the automatic one is '66-8.

'67-up vehicles with a vent window.

IIRC, those were used on marine, industrial, and maybe some vans/motorhomes where you couldn't see the timing marks with a conventional timing light. That tube was for a magnetic/optical pickup type timing light.

67-9 Barracuda front and rear bumpers interchange. Just the brackets are different front and rear.

I assume this is not a wagon? I've never seen one with actual chrome. All the ones I've seen (on the 270 and GT) have a glued-on plastic trim bezel piece with some silver foil on the inside to make it look chrome-like. I don't think the 170's came with that bezel.

I have a pair of '66 seats where the lever goes forward to release the slide. I'll have to go look at another set to verify it's correct.

'58-66 B and C-body with the clamp-on type front sway bar.

I don't have an SKF catalog at the moment.

If that's a photo of your rear axle, it's an 8 3/4. That takes the A7 axle bearing.

Nope, not built into the tube. It's a separate tube attached by a hose to a nipple on the filler neck

If I were you, I'd return that cover and get a good used original.

Same cover.

If you have an 8 3/4 rear end, the most common number is A7. Bower/BCA also made a kit with A7RK for the right (passenger) side, and A7LK for the left side. Do you want the factory Mopar number?

I have a new M & H harness with the Mopar electronic ignition conversion if that's something that works for you. I bought it by mistake a while back and would be willing to sell it. PM me if interested.

I think I'd go ahead and get a reman factory harness. Then all you have to disconnect on an engine swap is the coil, temp, a alternator wires. Easy to figure those out.

How much fooling around with the wiring are you planning to do? Seems to me once it's wired, it's done.

You might be better off getting a LOKAR cable setup. Even getting the stock 4bbl linkage that year would have to be modified to work properly.

Yup, but, he was asking about the back glass moldings.

The factory part number is 2465508 and is the same for both sides.

Nope, it doesn't as long as the vent tube is open. It just vents to the outside through the filler neck seal. I've seen them plugged with undercoat, rust, mud, bugs, etc.

The 2bbl and 4bbl bellcrank (that bolts to the back of the head) are different. so is the front link between the carb stud and the bellcrank. If you have an aftermarket intake and carb, that can be a chore trying to get it to work right.

If you use the factory color coded wires or their look-alike replacement, it's fairly Murphyproof if you have a factory wiring diagram.

If the coupler was disassembled sometime in the past, it may just have been re-assembled wrong. If you turn the shoes 90 degrees, there will be all kinds of slop in the coupler. I'd pull the column and disassemble the coupler before ordering any parts. It's rare that those shoes wear out...

A '67 would have a plastic lock strip, not a stainless molding, so, I assume you're in the process of converting over to the '68-up trim? If so, the 2 dr and 4dr sedans all use the same moldings, but, the 2drHT is different.....all pieces of it.

If the gasket is still live, I use the rope without any sealer. I like to lube it up with liquid soap or gritless GoJo. Makes washing things off easier.

I don't know if they're the absolute best or not, but, I got just about everything I needed for my '66 from Layson's.

The 392 stamped pan is the A,B,E,F body pan. The 875 is the '74-8 C-body pan, and a 438 pan is the '70-3 C-body. It's all about the clearance between the pan and the K-member and steering linkage. You also would be advised to get it's matching oil pickup tube.

You still might have to hammer a front corner to clear the k-member. Not all cars need that, but, don't be surprised if yours does.