it would be near impossible to sit down and write an entire list of everything that you need, where to get it and what you should spend. i'll do my best to help you out, but some stuff you're just going to need to either figure out or do a bunch of research on-- which you already are, and is great. but you'll need way more. start here:
Big Block Dart Forums
1. buying: there are tons of resources: ebay, c'list, offer up, swapmeets, classifieds on forums, online retailers (popular ones for this type of swap would be mancini racing, brewers and schumaker-- i link them here in the post)
2. pricing: because you're trying to flip this, price is critical but unfortunately there are some aspects of this swap and critical components that are just flat *** expensive. it's either by nature, because they're rare or no longer produced, or they're specialty items.
obviously obtaining used items is going to save you money, but there are some things you should buy new, like maybe a radiator or a clutch; but there are other things that you absolutely don't need to seek out and pay top dollar for as if you're undertaking a restoration. for example, you don't need a numbers matching transmission or a date coded bellhousing. this isn't that type of car.
so here's a quick and dirty rundown of the big pieces of the puzzle. this represents a slap dash search of just what it would take to get the project underway. i'm not including a link for a motor here. and again, this is just representative of what it takes to start pulling the project together. obviously, you can shop around for better pricing i'm just trying to give you a general idea here.
This kit eliminates the need for K-member removal and makes the job of installing a Big Block 383, 400 or 440 engine both easy and cost-efficient. Installs a Big Block on your V8 K-member, with or without power steering. Kit includes coated brackets, factory-style insulators, grade 8 hardware...
www.engine-swaps.com
Small position adjustments for header clearance are easy with this kit designed for all biscuit mounting systems. Contains 8 plated, steel shims, 2 of each: 1/16", 1/8", 3/16", 1/4". For B/RB and small block engines. Made in the USA!
www.engine-swaps.com
Our Big Block Mopar Tri-Y headers give you high-flow header performance and a custom fit that means you don't have to sacrifice your power steering. Fits all Big Block engines - 361, 383, 400, 413, 426 Wedge, and 440. Also fits great with most aftermarket aluminum heads with angled plugs...
www.engine-swaps.com
3/8 Stud, nut, and washer kit to aid in installation of our Big Block Tri-Y Headers. Install as per factory manual.
www.engine-swaps.com
Great replacement to the stock gear reduction starter. Works great with our Tri-Y Big and Small block headers. Due too casting variances, it is recommended to test fit the starter prior to final installation. In some instances there is excess casting that will need to be ground down for proper...
www.engine-swaps.com
Throw away your chains and broken motor mounts; our new torque strap can handle all the upgraded power and excess vibration your Small or Big Block can dish out. Mounts in existing sway bar location - Possible drilling required. Kit includes coated brackets, polyurethane isolators, high...
www.engine-swaps.com
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Mopar 1964/1965 A Body A 833 4 Speed Transmission with Hurst shifter and linkage at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.com
this is not the exact 4spd you would want-- it's the early type with a ball & trunion type output and not the slip yoke, and while it would work, it's not ideal. but the price is about what i would expect to pay for a later (67+) complete A body 4spd with a shifter.
here's the 4spd hump you'll need for the floor:
www.brewersperformance.com
here's a bell housing:
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for mopar #2468372 big block a body 67 68 69 and 10.5" 4 speed bell housing 66 67 B at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.com
bell dust cover:
www.brewersperformance.com
you'll need the Z-bar w/ ball studs and brackets:
www.brewersperformance.com
and clutch rod and clutch fork:
www.brewersperformance.com
www.brewersperformance.com
here's the swing pedals:
www.brewersperformance.com
gonna need a flywheel and clutch:
www.brewersperformance.com
www.brewersperformance.com
let's keep it cool with this radiator and fan combo:
so, there's the big kind of overall picture of where you'd be headed. obviously you can save money on used parts and not go ultra high dollar with stuff like the radiator and maybe just do a stock clutch kit from rock auto. but you're not going to cut that number in half.
i don't know what you have out back rear end wise or what you've got for a driveshaft. so i'll just say thow $450 in the budget for a custom built driveshaft. if you need a rearend, that's a whole 'nother ball of wax.
you'll need an oil pan specifically for an a-body application. so keep that in mind.
power steering and power brakes are another area of concern. depending on the motor selected and the type of headers they may or may not fit, and if they do fit, there might be some tricky or expensive supporting harware and brackets. the same goes for heating and AC, it may come down to an expensive aftermarket solution or an equally expensive stock solution that you have to hunt down pieces for.
besides cutting the floor for the 4spd hump, the only other thing i can think of "fabrication wise" is you may need to grind some clearance on the k-memeber for motor fitment. expect to wrestle with the headers and maybe clearance them as well. you'll need to extend the wires for the distributor and coil.
anyway, that's the jist of it. hope that helps set you along the way!