SlantedDart
Well-Known Member
Crank on the gen 3 only sticks out .500 from block not like the old school stuff
Gen3 hemi tkx swap
- Thread starter SlantedDart
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SlantedDart
Well-Known Member
Got some good news I guess for the bellhousing. We are going to use it. I’ll have to make a custom pilot bushing that’s a little longer. After measuring everything out the clutch disk will ride right at the very end of the spline of the input shaft. Won’t be running a spacer in between crank and fly wheel.
My only concern is how much travel the throw out bearing has.. at full travel to the snap ring the rotation stud is looking like it’s at the very end. How far does it travel? I have .75 bore master.
For now I got the brake lines made and e brake lines ran with studs and line clamps. Ready to paint the housing.
My only concern is how much travel the throw out bearing has.. at full travel to the snap ring the rotation stud is looking like it’s at the very end. How far does it travel? I have .75 bore master.
For now I got the brake lines made and e brake lines ran with studs and line clamps. Ready to paint the housing.
I was wondering how that was going with the bell. SST or American power train does not make a stepped pilot? Doesn't take much to make it but?
A bit of extra space there for the hydro throw out too. A shallower bell would be nicer but glad it's working.
What gear ratio and tire size you running?
I like the build of your car. Very nice work and combination. Thanks for the pics of the progress.
A bit of extra space there for the hydro throw out too. A shallower bell would be nicer but glad it's working.
What gear ratio and tire size you running?
I like the build of your car. Very nice work and combination. Thanks for the pics of the progress.
SlantedDart
Well-Known Member
Thanks. I’ll keep them coming. I haven’t found a stepped pilot for this application. I’ll be running a 255/60 drag radial with 4:30 gear
SlantedDart
Well-Known Member
Been putting the front suspension on. Hdk kit is very nice. I had stock strut bars in it with the factory rubber so I made a front adjustable arm. Initially I had someone spin up the rear mount and made an arm to the front with rod ends and clevis style mount in the front. After the install I put it through travel and it bound up pretty bad. I think Chrysler had rubber on the front side so it could sorta telescope through travel because it’s not swinging at the same arch as A arm. Finding out that I raised the rear point high as I could. Now it will freely move and not want to pivot the lower arm in… spindle parts should be here tomorrow and hopefully welded by the weekend.
mopowers
Well-Known Member
That's a nifty idea! Does the fact that it ends up a tad shorter cause any issue?
SlantedDart
Well-Known Member
No, it’s already longer than the A arm. Better to have a bigger swing. Helps with the arch
DionR
Well-Known Member
Please post pictures of the parts before welding as well as after. Dying of curiosity to see it.
rmchrgr
Skate And Destroy
Shouldn't be a lot. Isn't there a spec in the instructions?
Several years ago I put an American Powertrain hydraulic throw out bearing in my '68 Coronet. While not a Tremec with an aftermarket bell, one would think it's the same idea. Target travel/air gap on that part was .150". .200" is too much and .100" is not enough.
The bearing is really not supposed to retract. The operation is similar to how disc brakes work. The bearing rests on the clutch fingers like a caliper piston would on a spinning rotor. You want it to have instant action and if it has to travel real far then it will be delayed and will take more pedal travel to fully disengage the clutch.
BTW, I used the factory clutch pedal and clutch rod to give the right pedal ratio - it was the right move. I cut one end of the clutch rod off and drilled/tapped it to accept the threaded rod that actuates the master cylinder. The OE rod end is actually angled already so there was a slight offset to the right. I had to clearance the inner opening of the firewall plate a bit to keep the rod from contacting it at full travel but that was it. It's more important to have the correct amount of travel.
I drove it thousands of miles like that without issue. Hyd. throwout was one of the best things I did to the car, worked beautifully.
Slanted Darts scenario is different than yours. He has extra space between throw out and clutch. His crank flange is shallower on the gen 3 hemi versus small block. Quicktime lists the bell housing being the same when the gen 3 bell should be shallower.
That's what I believe was the issue.
That's what I believe was the issue.
rmchrgr
Skate And Destroy
Maybe I misunderstood but he asked specifically how much travel the throwout bearing should have? The concept is simple and should be the same no matter what the application. There should be very little travel for the reasons I gave. Too much travel and you'll potentially push the piston out of the bore.Too little travel and the clutch won't disengage.
I had a similar issue putting a 4 speed into a car that was originally a 727 because of the shallow pilot bore. I did a lot of measuring trying to avoid doing this but I ended up having to cut the end of the input shaft by almost 1/2". It's actually not uncommon to have to do that. If the stack up is off, do what needs to be done to make it work. Trimming the input shaft won't hurt it as long as the area within the pilot bushing or bearing makes full contact with the I.D.
If I'm missing something, I apologize and disregard what I suggested.
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