Working on electronic ignition conversion for HP273 dual point distributors

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I too have the IBS 4013 cast iron dual point distributor and have had multiple conflicting answers from different Pertronics reps over the phone regarding their kits.

I've been told that I need the 1383, 1385, 1385 LM, and twice told that nothing is available that will work on my distributor.

Could you please reply one more time Toolmanmike as to if you also have the IBS 4013 and if the 1383 kit worked well for you? Has anyone else tried this specific combination?

Please keep us posted Valley Boy as to your results with this combination as well.

I have a '67 Barracuda 273 Commando and am only looking for a nice serviceable electronic conversion, don't need anything fancy...

Thanks!
Yes, that's the one I used. I will try to remember to post a photo tomorrow.
 
I too have the IBS 4013 cast iron dual point distributor and have had multiple conflicting answers from different Pertronics reps over the phone regarding their kits.

I've been told that I need the 1383, 1385, 1385 LM, and twice told that nothing is available that will work on my distributor.

Could you please reply one more time Toolmanmike as to if you also have the IBS 4013 and if the 1383 kit worked well for you? Has anyone else tried this specific combination?

Please keep us posted Valley Boy as to your results with this combination as well.

I have a '67 Barracuda 273 Commando and am only looking for a nice serviceable electronic conversion, don't need anything fancy...

Thanks!
I am awaiting the distributor portion of the conversion kit, I did receive the coil. I will kept posted when I get remainder of kit and install. My only install question is regarding the ballast resistor. There are 2 terminals with 2 wires going to each terminal. Toolmanmike, I think you said you just tapped into the wire coming from the ignition switch. My question is what about the remaining 3 wires did you just leave contacted to the resistor. What color was the the ignition wire. Thanks again for your help !!
 
I used the 91383 in my '65 dual point distributor. No problems at all.

The 91383 is the Ignitor II version of the 1383 and has some improved features.
 
I am awaiting the distributor portion of the conversion kit, I did receive the coil. I will kept posted when I get remainder of kit and install. My only install question is regarding the ballast resistor. There are 2 terminals with 2 wires going to each terminal. Toolmanmike, I think you said you just tapped into the wire coming from the ignition switch. My question is what about the remaining 3 wires did you just leave contacted to the resistor. What color was the the ignition wire. Thanks again for your help !!
Wow, that was a long time ago. (11 years ago) I was chasing a rough/rich idle condition at that time that ended up being too cold of spark plug heat range. I don't remember how I wired it but I will looks for a photo or two. Those kits either work off 12 volt or are ran through the ballast and the instructions should tell.

Mopar Nats 11 003.JPG


View attachment 1715762106

Mopar Nats 11 007.JPG
 
Well, I finally busted a move and ordered a Pertronics kit. All that is now available is the 1385LS. Hopefully it will work in my distributor.

The ad says it will, but doesn't mention the specific distributor numbers. I will post results soon. Hoping to install this weekend, if parts arrive in time.

Mopar or No Car!
 
Well, I finally busted a move and ordered a Pertronics kit. All that is now available is the 1385LS. Hopefully it will work in my distributor.

The ad says it will, but doesn't mention the specific distributor numbers. I will post results soon. Hoping to install this weekend, if parts arrive in time.

Mopar or No Car!
Thanks and yes, keep us posted. I think there have been some updated numbers in the past few years. I will edit my original post with the new number if it works. I put a Pertronix in my Swinger single point a few years back and it has worked flawlessly.
 
IF the Pertronix is unavailable, pull (disable) one of the points and let that single one tickle an MSD or Mallory ignition box white wire. Your points will last forever as they have barely any load on them, just triggering the new ignition box to a ground square wave signal.
 
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Here's a pic of the Pertronix 1385LS installed in my (1967 273) IBS 4013 cast iron dual point distributor. Seems like it fits to me... with rotor and cap on, the shaft spins freely, no problem.

I did find slight interference between the vac adv arm and the adv plate. You can see it in the picture. I will be relieving just a bit of the arm in that area for clearance.

Also, there is a felt washer, a metal washer, and what I first thought was a home made wire clip for attaching the vac adv to the plate. I am now thinking that is an actual clip. Does anyone recognize it, or have seen them before?

On disassembly, the felt washer was on the bottom, with the metal washer above, then the vac adv arm, with the retaining "clip" on top. Does that sound right?

I had to loosen and rotate the silver ground wire to where it looked best to me, and the red / black wires had to be pulled through the grommet for what seemed to me to be the right length. Hopefully those wire won't rub on anything and cause a problem.

There is no adjustment on the pick up, so it must be fine? Also, there is a white sticker on the face of pick up... not sure what to think of that? In the pic you see one sticker on top, but there is one on the sensor surface as well. I may remove that one later.

Upon verification that the unit does fit, and all seems well, I have ordered a 40001 (chrome) coil, and 708180 stock looking plug wires.

I have been advised by Pertronix to bypass the ballast resistor at this point, which is fine by me. One less weak link to worry about! I will leave it in place to keep the stock look.
 
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View attachment 1715824156 View attachment 1715824157 View attachment 1715824154 View attachment 1715824155 Here's a pic of the Pertronix 1385LS installed in my (1967 273) IBS 4013 cast iron dual point distributor. Seems like it fits to me... with rotor and cap on, the shaft spins freely, no problem.

I did find slight interference between the vac adv arm and the adv plate. You can see it in the picture. I will be relieving just a bit of the arm in that area for clearance.

Also, there is a felt washer, a metal washer, and what I first thought was a home made wire clip for attaching the vac adv to the plate. I am now thinking that is an actual clip. Does anyone recognize it, or have seen them before?

On disassembly, the felt washer was on the bottom, with the metal washer above, then the vac adv arm, with the retaining "clip" on top. Does that sound right?

I had to loosen and rotate the silver ground wire to where it looked best to me, and the red / black wires had to be pulled through the grommet for what seemed to me to be the right length. Hopefully those wire won't rub on anything and cause a problem.

There is no adjustment on the pick up, so it must be fine? Also, there is a white sticker on the face of pick up... not sure what to think of that? In the pic you see one sticker on top, but there is one on the sensor surface as well. I may remove that one later.

Upon verification that the unit does fit, and all seems well, I have ordered a 40001 (chrome) coil, and 708180 stock looking plug wires.

I have been advised by Pertronix to bypass the ballast resistor at this point, which is fine by me. One less weak link to worry about! I will leave it in place to keep the stock look.
Thanks for the update. You will be on the road soon. That crazy clip could probably be replaced with a E clip depending on what the groove on the advance arm looks like. Nicely done!
 
I installed a petronix 1 in my 66 Barracuda S 15 years ago . Petronix said they did not have a kit for the 273 dual point but had one for a 340. I ordered the 340 kit and all I had to change was enlarge one screw hole very little. Works very good. I left the resistor in but bypassed it.
 
I installed a petronix 1 in my 66 Barracuda S 15 years ago . Petronix said they did not have a kit for the 273 dual point but had one for a 340. I ordered the 340 kit and all I had to change was enlarge one screw hole very little. Works very good. I left the resistor in but bypassed it.
Back when I did mine I couldn't believe they didn't have one listed. But, that application was only for 3 years. They were good enough to get me one that worked by sending a distributor to them and they matched one up.
 
Back when I did mine I couldn't believe they didn't have one listed. But, that application was only for 3 years. They were good enough to get me one that worked by sending a distributor to them and they matched one up.

Hello, 4 months later, and I'm back! Over the winter I tore the engine down to cast iron block and reciprocating assy., replacing all servicable parts, cleaning, painting etc... and now I'm about to put dist. back in, (after relieving some material from the vac adv., and replacing the washers and clip)

I was going to continue using my old cap & rotor, then decided to replace them too while I'm at it, but I cannot find a definative answer as to what dist cap this cast iron dual point (Chrysler 2642242, IBS 4013) will require?
Is this just a typical Mopar cap & rotor, or is it a special one? If so, are they readily available? I found a listing for Echlin ECH AL125 rotor at Napa, which is for dual point, but so far no dual point specific dist cap listing.
 
It is the standard Prestolite cap with spring loaded center conductor and flat conductor rotor. Same as a 68-71 340 4 speed.
 
Thanks for the info guys!

I've been talking with a buddy of mine who works at a local Napa over the phone, and he's put some effort into finding an answer, so I'll be checking in with him, this after noon to see what he comes up with.

Hoping for a moderately priced, readily available (lol?) part. And, I don't want to commit to ordering a Prestolite until I know for sure it's what I need.

I will post my findings once I know whether or not I'm in Prestolite denial, ha ha!

Pic is progress so far;
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My Napa buddy came through, and I got what I asked for;
Echlin ECH AL124 Cap - $17.00,
ECH AL125 Rotor - $6.49.
As I was told, they are for "1967 273 Dual point". I still don't know if that means "Prestolite" parts, or that I have a "Prestolite" distributor, but they fit, and it appears they'll work.

The minor downsides are;

1. They're black, not tan
2. No vent
3 Aluminum contacts in cap

I decided to go with them anyway, since they will get me down the road. Realistically, the aluminum contacts should work adequetely, though I would've preferred brass. I'm guessing the vent may not be that big of a deal either. My last cap was tan, but had no vent either. Maybe it will be needed even less since I've eliminated the two sets of points?

I am very glad that I was able to get something that works, at a moderate price, but would've been even happier, had I actually gotten a tan one, with brass contacts, and a vent. I would've gladly paid a little more for better quality. You know the first person who sees under my hood will point and say "hey, your cap's the wrong color!" Doh!

Now for some dialectric grease on contacts, as halifaxhops reccomends! I'm thinking a very light coating to avoid build up of particles? Sounds kind of crazy, but he could be onto something?

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There you go. Original caps were black without a vent. Contacts were brass, I'll second using dielectric grease on the plug wire sockets, not sure I'd use it anywhere else.
 
There you go. Original caps were black without a vent. Contacts were brass, I'll second using dielectric grease on the plug wire sockets, not sure I'd use it anywhere else.

Oh, that's interesting... I'll be sure to mention it to the "your cap should be tan" guys, ha ha!
Btw, my 30 years in storage plug wires looked great, but were stuck like someone glued them on at the cap and plugs. Tore a few in half trying to get them loose!

Definately greasing ends of new ones, curious about the expert advise for inside cap, very aprehensive though... maybe just a light film on the metal?
 
... Definately greasing ends of new ones, curious about the expert advise for inside cap, very aprehensive though... maybe just a light film on the metal?

I have always left everything inside the cap dry. Never had a problem, I don't think I will do that myself.
 
273CMNDO.gif

There you go. Original caps were black without a vent. Contacts were brass, I'll second using dielectric grease on the plug wire sockets, not sure I'd use it anywhere else.
Yes.
I have a ton of 273 photos but I don't see any with enough clarity to see the cap. Most have black, a few tan, one or two with red, and of course a totally incorrect blue. LOL I bet @65dartcharger will agree that the black is correct.
 
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Yes.
I have a ton of 273 photos but I don't see any with enough clarity to see the cap. Most have black, a few tan, one or two with red, and of course a totally incorrect blue. LOL I bet @65dartcharger will agree that the black is correct.

He would know. I can't remember when tan caps came in, but I'm pretty sure early to mid sixties were black. Especially on Prestolite distributors, It would be interested to "know".
 
He would know. I can't remember when tan caps came in, but I'm pretty sure early to mid sixties were black. Especially on Prestolite distributors, It would be interested to "know".
@halifaxhops?
 
Oh man, what a roller coaster ride! If this keeps up I'm going to need some drammamine, lol! At least I had an afternoon of believing I was the right color. It was nice while it lasted...

I also realized, after carefully relieving that area of interference on my vac advance with pin grinder (it came out nice!), that the diaphragm was blown...oops, I guess I shouldv'e checked that first?

Oh well, hopefully those are still available for cast iron dual point distributors? I'll check with my Napa bud on Monday.

Lots of progress otherwise today. The Barracuda is coming together! Thanks to all for your comments. They make even learning the hard way fun!
 
I bought a new 273 dual point Prestolite distributor from Plymouth dealer in 1966.
The cap was tan and still is. Don't know what this means, just saying.
 
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