TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
GET ONE!
They help quite a bit with hot fuel issues.
Engine heat travels right up into the carb metal.
Gets hot and stalls out
- Thread starter itsfishy
- Start date
-
GET ONE!
They help quite a bit with hot fuel issues.
Engine heat travels right up into the carb metal.
itsfishy
Well-Known Member
OK let's talk the radiator for a minute. I've seen all kinds of posts recommending different cores, tube diameters, so forth. I've got a Northern radiator (part 209625), 2 row, 1" tubes. Fan is a 6 blade steel, shrouded, mechanical with 2" spacer. I unfortunately do not know the pump or thermostat. It would seem that a non-clutched fan would cool better than a clutched fan? So a swap to a higher blade fan, hi-flow thermostat and water pump *should* see a noticeable difference?
Last edited:
itsfishy
Well-Known Member
Alrighty...I think I may have some hood clearance issues with that, but we'll see. I've got quite the parts list going! LolGET ONE!
They help quite a bit with hot fuel issues.
Engine heat travels right up into the carb metal.
There is a thin insulated gasket/spacer you can buy.
However before buying parts, determine the source of the the problem.
A carb spacer will not solve heat issues in the feed line.
Fuel filter angle looks good.
You can do a bunch of investigating. When it won't start, take the air cleaner off. Is there fuel dripping (over filled bowls)? Open a siyte plug to check levels. (have a rag ready). One reason it won't start is flooding (vapor pushed extra fuel into the bowls) and the other is vaporization in the carb (not enough liquid fuel - or not enough of the light molecules still in liquid state). Different causes = different solutions
Measure the timing. Get the coolant temps down and the engine bay temps may go down. Find out if you're area has winter fuel - that makes things worse - much worse. Etc etc.
However before buying parts, determine the source of the the problem.
A carb spacer will not solve heat issues in the feed line.
Fuel filter angle looks good.
You can do a bunch of investigating. When it won't start, take the air cleaner off. Is there fuel dripping (over filled bowls)? Open a siyte plug to check levels. (have a rag ready). One reason it won't start is flooding (vapor pushed extra fuel into the bowls) and the other is vaporization in the carb (not enough liquid fuel - or not enough of the light molecules still in liquid state). Different causes = different solutions
Measure the timing. Get the coolant temps down and the engine bay temps may go down. Find out if you're area has winter fuel - that makes things worse - much worse. Etc etc.
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
- Joined
- Jan 19, 2014
- Messages
- 25,807
- Reaction score
- 13,113
the tricks are
1) is to get your engine to run at one temperature within a very narrow band, and
2) to get the inlet air temperature swing also normalized, and then tune it for that.
Even if you could get your engine down to 180, as soon as it gets to 190, it needs a new tune, and at 200 again a new tune, and at 210, yet another tune.
You cannot tune a carb and a distributor to deal with a 30 degree engine temperature swing, never mind with inlet air temps that can vary from ambient to 200 to 300 or more degrees.
I gotta tell ya, if your carb is sucking hot underhood air, it's exactly normal for the idle-temp to rise like a run-away nuclear reactor.
The best change I made, that rendered all other changes to the also-rans category, was cutting a hole in my hood and sealing the hood to the carb.
The Second best change, was to install a thermostatic clutch on the fan, and adjust it to come on at 207*F. The Hi-flow T-stat is stamped 195, but the hottest point on my thermostat housing always ran 205, so I assume the stat is defective, but-um, it was new in about 2002, and has always been consistent, and so, it's staying.
Running a solid 207*, my 750DP runs 72/80 jets, and it ain't rich. She even ran that 93mphTrapspeed, above, with those jets and with 34* timing, and on 87E10.
Here's what my cooling system looks like:
First the major players;
> hyper pistons installed loose with somewhat "baggy" gaps.
> the engine runs alloy heads, and the SCr has been adjusted variously between 10.7 and 11.3, currently at 10.95
> Fresh cold air to the carb
> a factory rad off a 1973 Dart 318 with A/C. She's a 26" but running in a 22" core-support.
> I run a Milodon 7-qt roadrace pan with the sideways bump-outs, and the oil level is kept between 5 and 6 qts..
>The Milodon Hi-flow pump has 8-vanes and the anti-cavitation plate. I bought it for the bigger driveshaft and HD bearing, so I could mount the biggest daymn
> 7-blade all-steel fan, with hi-attack angle blades, and
> on a honking big Ford pick-up truck Thermostatic clutch.
Then the minor players;
no oil cooler, and no condenser
a hi-flow stat, molded hoses including the anti-collapse spring in the lower one, a restricted bypass, and 50/50 water/antifreeze.
Engine doesn't care about Idle-timing.
87E10 gas, 100% of the time, even at the track.
And, here's the unconventional thing, my pump is slightly underdriven.
I just want to re-iterate;
this 367 went 93 mph in the Eighth, at 3457 pounds, spinning most of the way, if not all, running at 207*F, on a "hot" summer's day. Hot around here is very rarely more than 100*F
In four runs, I never shut it off . Didn't need to.
This 367 idles on 14* max. and at just 5*, it will idle right down to 550rpm, whilst pulling itself around the parking lot, on a hot day no less. and
BTW, I run a 7 pound cap, on my 1973 radiator, on which, even the patches have patches.
I am not afraid to drive this car anywhere any time, and in the trunk is a rudimentary toolkit and a few spare parts, I mean, the kit has been there already for over 20 years, so it can stay there. Also in there is the 600Vsec, that once got me 32 mpgUS, that I bolt on for long trips.
BTW,
lest you think that big 7-blade fan will suck your engine power into the basement consider this;
1) with a Thermostatic clutch, it never runs full-time, unless maybe at idle with the car stopped, and
2) anytime the car is moving, there will come a speed when the air ramming thru the rad is sufficient to turn the Thermostatic fan off, after which, it is more or less freewheeling
3) and when it's freewheeling, it's costing you just about nothing
4) unless the belt flips off, it could save you a Big-Dollar engine-rebuild, thus giving you
5) 99% peace of mind always.
What's that worth to you? a couple of horsepower at idle, maybe 5hp at 20 mph. By 30mph, ram-air is coming on line, and the power required to turn the fan is dropping, and when equilibrium is reached, it will be darn close to zero, Trapspeed is unaffected cuz the darn thing was already off-line, probably before 40 mph.
I only ever notice my fan at idle.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
I run my 367 at 207* for a reason, and it's been that way for over two decades, and I'm not about to change it.
My engine does not live on a dyno. It's actually mounted in a car and at one time, was my DD; yes, a 400Plus hp torque-monster.
Will the engine make more power on the dyno running cooler?
Sure.
Does that make a big deal once installed and working traffic, or cruising the hiway, at under 3000/3500 rpm?
Not hardly.
How often is the engine of a street-driven muscle car at the power-peak, and WOT?
Well for most of us, running automatics,
Top of First gear is it, and the tires are usually still spinning, so, a few hp more or less is not a deal-breaker.
Top of Second is gonna be deep into speeding territory, and a few hp lost at 80/85mph is not gonna bring tears to my eyes.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
>So tell me, Mr. NewbombTurk;
Running at 207*F, Just how much power is my 230*-cammed 367 leaving on the table? wait, don't tell me.
Rather;
ask me if I care, cuz she already has more power than the chassis can deal with.
Oh if I'd only known about running at under 180*F, just think about how much more rubber I could have burned ................................. lol.
1) is to get your engine to run at one temperature within a very narrow band, and
2) to get the inlet air temperature swing also normalized, and then tune it for that.
Even if you could get your engine down to 180, as soon as it gets to 190, it needs a new tune, and at 200 again a new tune, and at 210, yet another tune.
You cannot tune a carb and a distributor to deal with a 30 degree engine temperature swing, never mind with inlet air temps that can vary from ambient to 200 to 300 or more degrees.
I gotta tell ya, if your carb is sucking hot underhood air, it's exactly normal for the idle-temp to rise like a run-away nuclear reactor.
The best change I made, that rendered all other changes to the also-rans category, was cutting a hole in my hood and sealing the hood to the carb.
The Second best change, was to install a thermostatic clutch on the fan, and adjust it to come on at 207*F. The Hi-flow T-stat is stamped 195, but the hottest point on my thermostat housing always ran 205, so I assume the stat is defective, but-um, it was new in about 2002, and has always been consistent, and so, it's staying.
Running a solid 207*, my 750DP runs 72/80 jets, and it ain't rich. She even ran that 93mphTrapspeed, above, with those jets and with 34* timing, and on 87E10.
Here's what my cooling system looks like:
First the major players;
> hyper pistons installed loose with somewhat "baggy" gaps.
> the engine runs alloy heads, and the SCr has been adjusted variously between 10.7 and 11.3, currently at 10.95
> Fresh cold air to the carb
> a factory rad off a 1973 Dart 318 with A/C. She's a 26" but running in a 22" core-support.
> I run a Milodon 7-qt roadrace pan with the sideways bump-outs, and the oil level is kept between 5 and 6 qts..
>The Milodon Hi-flow pump has 8-vanes and the anti-cavitation plate. I bought it for the bigger driveshaft and HD bearing, so I could mount the biggest daymn
> 7-blade all-steel fan, with hi-attack angle blades, and
> on a honking big Ford pick-up truck Thermostatic clutch.
Then the minor players;
no oil cooler, and no condenser
a hi-flow stat, molded hoses including the anti-collapse spring in the lower one, a restricted bypass, and 50/50 water/antifreeze.
Engine doesn't care about Idle-timing.
87E10 gas, 100% of the time, even at the track.
And, here's the unconventional thing, my pump is slightly underdriven.
I just want to re-iterate;
this 367 went 93 mph in the Eighth, at 3457 pounds, spinning most of the way, if not all, running at 207*F, on a "hot" summer's day. Hot around here is very rarely more than 100*F
In four runs, I never shut it off . Didn't need to.
This 367 idles on 14* max. and at just 5*, it will idle right down to 550rpm, whilst pulling itself around the parking lot, on a hot day no less. and
BTW, I run a 7 pound cap, on my 1973 radiator, on which, even the patches have patches.
I am not afraid to drive this car anywhere any time, and in the trunk is a rudimentary toolkit and a few spare parts, I mean, the kit has been there already for over 20 years, so it can stay there. Also in there is the 600Vsec, that once got me 32 mpgUS, that I bolt on for long trips.
BTW,
lest you think that big 7-blade fan will suck your engine power into the basement consider this;
1) with a Thermostatic clutch, it never runs full-time, unless maybe at idle with the car stopped, and
2) anytime the car is moving, there will come a speed when the air ramming thru the rad is sufficient to turn the Thermostatic fan off, after which, it is more or less freewheeling
3) and when it's freewheeling, it's costing you just about nothing
4) unless the belt flips off, it could save you a Big-Dollar engine-rebuild, thus giving you
5) 99% peace of mind always.
What's that worth to you? a couple of horsepower at idle, maybe 5hp at 20 mph. By 30mph, ram-air is coming on line, and the power required to turn the fan is dropping, and when equilibrium is reached, it will be darn close to zero, Trapspeed is unaffected cuz the darn thing was already off-line, probably before 40 mph.
I only ever notice my fan at idle.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
I run my 367 at 207* for a reason, and it's been that way for over two decades, and I'm not about to change it.
My engine does not live on a dyno. It's actually mounted in a car and at one time, was my DD; yes, a 400Plus hp torque-monster.
Will the engine make more power on the dyno running cooler?
Sure.
Does that make a big deal once installed and working traffic, or cruising the hiway, at under 3000/3500 rpm?
Not hardly.
How often is the engine of a street-driven muscle car at the power-peak, and WOT?
Well for most of us, running automatics,
Top of First gear is it, and the tires are usually still spinning, so, a few hp more or less is not a deal-breaker.
Top of Second is gonna be deep into speeding territory, and a few hp lost at 80/85mph is not gonna bring tears to my eyes.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
>So tell me, Mr. NewbombTurk;
Running at 207*F, Just how much power is my 230*-cammed 367 leaving on the table? wait, don't tell me.
Rather;
ask me if I care, cuz she already has more power than the chassis can deal with.
Oh if I'd only known about running at under 180*F, just think about how much more rubber I could have burned ................................. lol.
Last edited:
itsfishy
Well-Known Member
Thank you - great advice. I see there's a .250 spacer; I'll start with that. I'll switch the fuel lines from the pump to the carb to SS, and heat-shield them. (Any thoughts from the forum about shielding the fuel rail as well?) That should drop the fuel temp considerably. I do think getting an IR gun and checking the inflow/outflow of the radiator as well as the difference in temps on the fuel line after they're shielded would be good data to have. Also getting the timing data and referring it here so I understand it will add to the data.
Again, the car stalled AFTER it was shut down for a few minutes and then re-started (attempted re-start), meaning the temps climbed significantly over those few minutes. I did not see any fuel dripping from the bowl but you could certainly smell it, so based on this one incidence I think it's more of a vaporization issue than flooding. I think getting the fuel to the carb cooler is a good first step, but after I do all of that I want to address the overall engine temps with a goal of 190* in start-stop traffic on a reasonably warm (95*) day. I don't drive it much if it's hotter than that just because the car does not have A/C. Based on the various opinions on the forum, the radiator is likely sufficient, but I likely need to address the fan, pump and thermostat. These fixes should also give me an indication if there's any electrical issues that need to be addressed.
There's my plan. Any input is greatly appreciated.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
Sounds like you have the cooling equipment to do what you want so far for the most part.
Does your fan stick out of the shroud at all?
About 50 percent of the blades not inside the shroud makes a big difference in airflow.
It will still pull through the whole radiator, but more because the air has more area to exit the fan blades.
Kinda the megaphone affect.
There have been a ton of parts suggested, but I think engine timing, airflow and coolant flow should be the priorities.
The temp of the coolant coming out the bottom of the radiator is a really good thing to know.
That will tell you if the radiator is capable or not.
Some aren’t, even though new.
One would think 2 rows of one inch should do it, but there may be other issues with the design or manufacturing.
Timing light
IR heat gun
Fan position in the shroud.
Any carb insulator is better than none.
Return style filter. (Some use the old vent line if it’s still there as the return)
These items should get you well on your way.
Timing is a learning curve we can easily help you with.
itsfishy
Well-Known Member
The fan position has almost exactly 2" protruding from the shroud, so think we're good there. I'll get moving on parts!
Newbomb Turk
Well-Known Member
Before you get down a rabbit hole you don’t want, get your timing fixed before you do anything else. That’s job 1.
You have plenty of radiator. I suspect your pump is of the standard volume variety so that needs an upgrade.
You also need a high flow thermostat. You can get them from Stewart Components. There aren’t cheap. They are the best. Don’t skimp here.
And then find a set of pulleys that have the water pump pulley is smaller than the crank pulley. That’s huge.
I didn’t read all of what AJ said, but the part about tuning at different engine temperatures is correct. Running the engine over 180 is still a power killer but you have to tune for it.
Hot engines are to save the world from fictitious nonsense. Cool engines make power. Simple as that.
Use the fan you have. I’m not a fan (no pun intended) of clutch fans. What little bit of power the fixed fan eats it is a net gain when you keep the engine temperature down where it should be.
I live in a high desert valley. It gets hot here, not 112 hot but well over 100. I keep my engine at 160. Always.
itsfishy
Well-Known Member
I've got the timing and IR gun ordered, working on the SS fuel lines, spacer and heat shield now. I'm a very data-driven individual; I'm not fond of a shotgun approach and hoping I got whatever I was going after (to a point: there is some merit to "accuracy by volume", but that's usually more towards full-auto weapons than much else - but I digress). So, I want to get this stuff in, do "before" tests, discuss data, make changes, retest, rinse and repeat as necessary.
Holley has the Sniper2 out now, which requires only FOUR wires to hook up and get running. It's even making me tempted.
You'll probably get better at collecting and documenting data as time goes on. That's just the way the it is.
There's a couple ways to get the timing info if you're working alone. Of course begin by plugging the vac advance vacuum source (golf tee).
The first data point is fairly easy. Once its idling steady, shoot the TDC mark, adjust the dial back until it lines up with TDC and note the dial back reading and rpm.
Now for a second reading... One method is to turn in the 'idle speed screw'. Before doing that make a drawing of how the slot is clocked. The 'idle speed screw' is throttle position at slow idle and changing it will change the fuel mix at idle and off idle. And off course the goal here is to make baseline measurements and when done for all the adjustments to be the same as at the start of taking measurements. Hence the drawing.
Now you can turn in the idle position screw until the rpm is at some convenient number. Say its 800 rpm, then go to 1000 rpm, etc Whether its every 100, 200, or 250 is up to you. Or you can change the dial back for one or 2 additional degrees and increase the rpm untill the marks line up,. Then note the rpm. Whatever works for you.
Then plot it on a spreadsheet or graph paper as shown here. Need some help with my timing curve..
If timing advances immediately from your idle speed, then try to slow the engine down long enough to get a timing reading at a lower rpm. It will be easier to do this once the engine is warm.
itsfishy
Well-Known Member
I see some YouTube in my future. Lol
Good luck then!
Unless you mean the old Chrysler Master Technicians Conference. Get the basics down from the real deal the factory books; then principles, and then you can start to seperate the wheat from the chaff.
itsfishy
Well-Known Member
I don’t think you understand. I’m not being flippant; I literally don’t understand a lot of what you guys are saying. You’re teaching a masters class to someone in preschool! You say “get the basics down”. I agree, but here’s where I am: Find the timing? Ok…first I have to learn how to use a timing gun, what the hell I’m supposed to aim it at, take a reading and then make adjustments that (hopefully) make sense! So please, bear with me. I’ve learned more in a day than I could ever expect, and you all have been supremely giving with your knowledge and experience and I expect to learn a whole encyclopedia’s worth between here and there, but please be patient while I figure out the basics of the basics.
OK. I have no youtube auto people that I can suggest for solid basics and intro. The timing light will probably come with instructions. At least enough to hook it up. Like I mentioned there's an arrow on the inductive clamp and it goes on cylinder #1 spark plug wire. #1 is front left (driver's side) spark plug.
You'll want to look over the top of the light and aim it as best you can at the timing mark. The Harmonic damper is also marked. The strobe will make the marks appear to align or not. Without the dial back feature the balancer mark will line up with a timing mark on the case. That was fine for a factory engine for setting initial timing.
On a '70 up these will be on he left side on the timing cover.
These only go to 10 degrees Before Top Dead Center. If the timing was set at 17* BTDC (which would be OK with that cam), or if its idling at 1000 rpm so its advanced to something more than 10*, the timing mark on the balancer will be off the scale (under the water pump). That's where timing tape or the dial back light comes into play. On the light use the arrow buttons to bring the timing mark on the balancer so it lines up with the zero on the timing cover.
I've actually seen instructions on this in factory service manuals, but unfortunately I do not think it was Dodge or Plymouth manual.
That said, there is ALOT of info in the service manuals.
www.mymopar.com has many up to '74 or so digitized for download free.
The also have the Master Technicians Conference in pdf and on you tube. It's not that advanced. The booklets and filmstrips range from basic to slightly advanced. These are also available at the Imperial Online Club but in a different format. What I like about their collection is the index with descriptions.
So those should get you going. And guys here are willing to provide a hand on basics as well.
A person can learn how to do a lot of automotive work by rote.
As you handle things and do stuff, it becomes easier to understand the principles.
The reverese is also true. As you pick up on the principles, the things you are doing become easier to understand.
At least that's how it is for me. Everyone is different and may learn a bit differently.
You'll want to look over the top of the light and aim it as best you can at the timing mark. The Harmonic damper is also marked. The strobe will make the marks appear to align or not. Without the dial back feature the balancer mark will line up with a timing mark on the case. That was fine for a factory engine for setting initial timing.
On a '70 up these will be on he left side on the timing cover.
These only go to 10 degrees Before Top Dead Center. If the timing was set at 17* BTDC (which would be OK with that cam), or if its idling at 1000 rpm so its advanced to something more than 10*, the timing mark on the balancer will be off the scale (under the water pump). That's where timing tape or the dial back light comes into play. On the light use the arrow buttons to bring the timing mark on the balancer so it lines up with the zero on the timing cover.
I've actually seen instructions on this in factory service manuals, but unfortunately I do not think it was Dodge or Plymouth manual.
That said, there is ALOT of info in the service manuals.
www.mymopar.com has many up to '74 or so digitized for download free.
The also have the Master Technicians Conference in pdf and on you tube. It's not that advanced. The booklets and filmstrips range from basic to slightly advanced. These are also available at the Imperial Online Club but in a different format. What I like about their collection is the index with descriptions.
Master Technician Service Conference - Chrysler's Training for Mechanics
The Imperial Mailing List Online Car Club is dedicated to the preservation, appreciation and restoration of Imperials and Chrysler Imperials of all years, models and body-styles.
www.web.imperialclub.info
So those should get you going. And guys here are willing to provide a hand on basics as well.
A person can learn how to do a lot of automotive work by rote.
As you handle things and do stuff, it becomes easier to understand the principles.
The reverese is also true. As you pick up on the principles, the things you are doing become easier to understand.
At least that's how it is for me. Everyone is different and may learn a bit differently.
Last edited:
mopar head
Well-Known Member
Buying a model, year specific repair manual and reading through it will be well spent money.
Annnnnd I got treed
Annnnnd I got treed
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
This Holley YouTube video is pretty good for beginning
basics.
I’m a pretty strong believer in not flooding someone with information.
Happens way too much on here.
I can post more informative stuff when needed.
IMHO
You first need to determine the cause of the shut down and no restart.
Is it electrical or fuel BEFORE you start assuming it's one or the other.
Seems like everybody missed post #35.......
That is a sizeable cam & will have a rough idle. If the initial timing is still at factory specs of between 4-15* [ 12* is typical ], then not only will the idle be rougher than it needs to be....but the engine will run hotter at idle & low speeds. The idle timing may need to be as much as 45* with that cam.
If the ign timing is still stock, then here is a simple 5 min test: engine idling, loosen the dist clamp & turn the dist slowly CCW; this advances the timing. I have not seen your engine, but I know what will happen: idle rpm will increase & idle will get smoother.
This happens because the additional timing makes the engine more efficient & it runs cooler.
That is a sizeable cam & will have a rough idle. If the initial timing is still at factory specs of between 4-15* [ 12* is typical ], then not only will the idle be rougher than it needs to be....but the engine will run hotter at idle & low speeds. The idle timing may need to be as much as 45* with that cam.
If the ign timing is still stock, then here is a simple 5 min test: engine idling, loosen the dist clamp & turn the dist slowly CCW; this advances the timing. I have not seen your engine, but I know what will happen: idle rpm will increase & idle will get smoother.
This happens because the additional timing makes the engine more efficient & it runs cooler.
itsfishy
Well-Known Member
Actually I’m not assuming either. What I’m assuming is the heat is the problem: heat can cause fuel boil causing vapor lock, and heat can cause expansion in the coil and/or distributor disrupting spark. So, I’m shielding lines first and looking at the radiator efficiency specifically to isolate the electrical. My premise, hypothesis, is heat is the cause and the other two are symptoms of that cause. Yes, I’m treating one of the symptoms first but I after reading the bulletin and understanding how easy it is for fuel to evaporate, I think shielding the lines is prudent anyway. That’s why I chose that as a starting point.
surprise, there's also bad information posted on the internet forums.
Yes yes I think we all agree.
It seems likely its fuel, but having a spark tester on hand will help verify that the next time it happens.
Even knowing its fuel, need to determine if its too much liquid fuel into the intake manifold, or whether too much is vaporizing (either in the line or in the carb).
Since we know it runs cold, he won't be able to investigate all this until it happens, or at least is hot enough it might show symptoms upon investigation.
The business about measuring timing is to have baseline information. Whomever set this up had enough of a clue that it runs and drives. But if not enough advanced it could be a contributor to the coolant running around 210 with only a short drive on a moderate day.
Just so we're on the same page.
This is about where I'd expect the gage to be after a short drive and the engine still running.
On a longer drive at interstate speeds, or in stop and go, a reading past center would not be surprising.
As long as its stable, and not rising under either condition (driving at interstate speeds or stuck in traffic) its within the norm.
1975 Valiant Operator's Manual. page 10.
This is about where I'd expect the gage to be after a short drive and the engine still running.
On a longer drive at interstate speeds, or in stop and go, a reading past center would not be surprising.
As long as its stable, and not rising under either condition (driving at interstate speeds or stuck in traffic) its within the norm.
1975 Valiant Operator's Manual. page 10.
itsfishy
Well-Known Member
Fair enough. For reference, this is what I’m looking at.
On an overcast, 85* day at cruising speed it will sit at 180*. On a hot day (95+) it will go to 190*. Stop and start (or sitting at a prolonged light) it will go to 210* or a tad higher. What I think a lot of people are missing is that the temp climbed well above 210* after sitting for 5-7 minutes, meaning no airflow during that time. I think - again, my hypothesis- that it started with the fuel that was in the carb, but the fuel in the lines was boiling off and it stalled. Again, I could smell the fuel when I took the air cleaner off but I couldn’t/didn’t see any. That theory lines up with other times where it takes a little longer for the car to start (I.e. will turn over for a few seconds longer than a “normal” start) after sitting for 15-30 minutes: enough time for fuel in the carb and top of the lines to have boiled, but also enough time that fuel below the filter (and possibly the pump) to cool and start the car.
-
