Recent content by AndyF

I used big block bars in my Duster. I had a low deck 512 with aluminum heads. I also used a big anti-sway bar and Koni shocks. That combo worked great.

Probably won't fit with a stock hood. With a stock hood you probably need to limit yourself to a M1 intake or a Performer RPM. You can cheat a little bit by using a thin aftermarket air cleaner.

That is exactly what I'd expect to see on a 440 block that was making that amount of power for that number of hits. The production blocks just aren't designed to handle that much power for that long. The RB was designed in the late 50's to make around 300 hp at a fairly low RPM.

We've seen that a few times. Engine is still running fine with good oil pressure but when it gets pulled down the block is cracked and the crank is junk. So it was going to blow up in the near future, it just hadn't come apart yet. These are typically 700 to 750 hp combos. Trick Flow or Indy...

All depends on the block, the stamping, the casting, etc. A few RB blocks are worth a bunch, most aren't worth much. A few B blocks are worth money, most aren't worth much.

800 hp will crack them. They can run for awhile with cracks in the main webs but eventually the cracks will get big enough that it will blow up.

You'll also need to find the parts for the belt drive. Using a damper with a BBC front on it makes it easier since there are lots of BBC drive assemblies. There aren't many Mopar drive assemblies available.

Belt driven pump with a wet sump also requires a block off plate for the oil entry. You can use the same block off plate as you would for a dry sump. This setup from Peterson is pretty slick. It has a vacuum pump that hangs on the rear of the oil pump so the belt drives both at the same time...

Here is a billet block off plate with an AN fitting. Dry sump pan is also billet. That pan cost a little bit to make!

If you use a belt drive distributor with dry sump then you don't need a drive shaft at all. If you use a belt drive distributor with a wet sump then you need a support block to keep the gear from back up out of there. I've run all of these combinations. My 514 was dry sump, belt drive...

No, I just use a factory gasket. I used to have custom gaskets made but I don't bother with that anymore.

No, I usually tell customers to cut the drive shaft off below the upper bearing. No reason to have it whipping around in there.

Here are three ideas.

I dug around the internet and found the article that I wrote a million years ago: https://www.hotrod.com/how-to/1007phr-big-block-mopar-engines

That engine had a set of heads that you ported. Edelbrock heads and you did some bowl work and valve job and got them up over 300 on the intake side. It was a long time ago, maybe 2008 or 2009? I wrote some articles for Popular Hot Rodding on this engine but sadly I don't have links anymore. I...