Recent content by canyncarvr

30A and 250W of heat dissipation is impressive for that package. Thanks for that data sheet! I do find it curious that there are no sink requirements for that kind of heat. I doubt it (that listed heat elimination) is going to happen with a TO-220 case sticking up into the 'general area' of a...

A semi-conductor housed in a TO-220 case simply can not do 'the same job' as one mounted in a TO-3 case. I'll make you a burger the size of a thimble...and one a two-handed 1/3 of a pound on a plate. Hey! The burger the size of the thimble is Prime grade

It's likely bad form to name the person/entity without their permission. The part came from Amazon. Amazon said it was proffered by 'Standard Motor Products', although the same page listed a different name as the retailer. I ASKED if the part was indeed from SMP. I was assured it was. I...

Someone said TO-220s are pieces of crap? I missed that. A semiconductor in a TO-220 case has limitations that come with that fitment. On the top of that list of limitations is current carrying capability and, as a side-effect, the ability to sink heat. It is well beyond basic reason to...

Regarding TO-220's being used in 'looks like' newer Mopar replacement ignition boxes, I received this statement: Sure. TO-220s work just fine in some circuits. As a replacement for a TO-3? Nah.

I intend no finger-pointing or blaming anyone, or wanting to make a non-sensical mess about anything (the definition of Who Shot John). I did say that idle timing is the same (12ºBTDC) in the new spark setup as it was in the earlier. That does not account for crank-speed timing (500rpm and...

One of the 'plus' details said of this box, it will, '...increase coil voltage when cranking for quicker cold starts.' Another statement says it will 'increase dwell' on cold starts. Does that effect initial timing? I just put in the HRR688 with its associated Pertronix 40011 coil. First...

Footnote 2? How about this: The power wire to the spark box broke. With an electrically unknown (at that point) lump now connected to the '-' of the ignition coil, might the signal the tach was then subjected to have damaged it? That would make the two failures NOT concurrent but sequential...

A bit of a footnote. I am saying only that my tach was what made this failure go away when the tach is removed. Is there something else in the circuit that, by its 'less than' performance put the tach in such a critical position? Likely. If I wired this tach (a Mallory with knobs for a shift...

I very much appreciate your non-participance. Thank you!

Resolution: It's the tach. I disconnected the tach from the coil-. <Start>/<Run> fine. OK...a bit of a miss I think, but that's for another ponderment. I had a coil do that once... While running, I touched the tach wire to the coil -. Engine stopped. My Standard LX-101 liveth! ...good...

Connectors are NOT plugged in to the ballast. Voltage readings taken using a meter ground connection directly to the body...not a bolt or screw that's been there for 45 years. A btw, but the battery is in the trunk with ITS ground connected to the body. Engine has a battery cable from a...

About a bulkhead problem or ignition switch: There is a solid (VOM measured) voltage at the ignition box at both <start> and <run> key positions. When the key is moved to <run> from <start>, the engine stops like it's been switched off. It's immediate. It's repetitive. It's repeatable...

Hello folks: I got a good bit of rebuff when I asked a question earlier. People wanted to know things I hadn't posted...I didn't think were at all related. I had NO intention of leaving stuff out, thought I was doing everyone a favor. I hope to do better this time. Took my Duster to town...

No. It was not. Too much assumin' goin' on, although I do appreciate the intent. I did not include particulars for a reason. The year (in my signature...which I understand some/most/all fones don't show), the ignition type...none of that is pertinent. No attempt on my part to be smarmy or...