Recent content by Daves69

Got it covered for ya' there jim! :thumbsup:

Putting a new core in mine now. Hasn't had heat for years so no antifreeze spilled. Wasn't even gonna' try the original though. The new core lower tube was 3/8" too far to the left, and wouldn't fit the box at all. Jegs said to go ahead and bend it, check it, if it makes it leak we'll take care...

I think ya' pull the carpet, hang it over a clothesline and power wash the shi..... :eek:...um....glycol out of it. :)

Intake Manifold Silencer Insulation Kit. .........Its purpose was listed in parts catalogs as "Valve Tappet Noise Reduction Silencer Package." Some say its real purpose was to prevent the intake manifold from cracking due to heat. Some say it was only used on air conditioning cars...

More info might help. What exactly are you working on and which differential?? If you are drilling axle flanges you need to be dead on with the bolt circle. 1/2" SCREW IN studs get pretty close to the flange edge of my 8-3/4. The 7/16" holes were filled. Drilling drums is not as critical...

Maybe the tail panel tabs are bent out (looking like my first drawing) leaving the gap?

If it helps a little small but some pictures here with some on and off........ https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/69-barracuda-tail-panel.519937/ Side view knda'-sorta''.

IMO, reread the first sentence in post #3. Work off that. The .060" below is not gospel. The clutch peddle OVER CENTER spring under the dash works in both directions. First, it assists in peddle effort to help your leg release all pressure plate load on the disc. Secondly. once the peddle...

How about posting some pictures of the components as installed? Engine and trans mounts secured (nothing shifting/rolling)? Did you add a block plate and face the FW by chance?

Maybe adapt the bracket rearward somehow? A cruise adapter bracket worked for me. Likely too high for yours....

If you're considering a change, after repairing cracks, I turned my standard argent surrounds and egg crates black with SEM trim paint.....

Don't overlook your distributor/ FW clearance.

Thinking the OP might want to do some quick measuring to make sure a bearing will be on what's left of the .750" diameter. Picture looks like it should. Somewhere here Brewers has posted their dimensioned drawing. What I've found on a 440 auto crank for some reference.......

If you tear the fender wells completely out you'll certainly need J tubes or similar. A lot of unnecessary rip and tear in that post 15 picture to use FWs. IDK if Hookers work with those heads. Here's the cutout for Hooker FWs...