Recent content by Jim Kueneman

My buddy owns a machine shop and adding bigger valves was not much more than stock seats. The Performance Trends model says it would give you a bit more with the RV10 grind (Oregon Cams 2106 is basically the same) at high RPM as the head flow is the bottleneck. I did it for fun and have...

Done. 1963 did not have power brakes but ours does now. Couple of tweaks for 63. The hood rod clip is welded to the bulge for the wiper that was removed in 64 for the V8. This pushed the hood torsion rods forward just enough to hit the upper bolts on the booster. I put a small piece of hose...

Anyone have a battery topper and did not use the green caps that has a spare or two they would sell? Baring that how about a full set of red or yellow? Hate to buy a new one for a single missing cap.

The aftermarket switch could not find a spot that worked for both all the time. The NOS one has worked perfectly

Not true, I had an aftermarket one fail like that in the Duster. If I slammed it into Park on the times it failed to start in Park it would usually work after that. The rooster comb that pushes the switch is not exactly the same profile in Park as it is in Neutral so it may be on the edge of...

'64 is still under the dash. All that is different is that in '63 there is a bulge on firewall where it mounts and in '64 the firewall was smoothed out and they welded a bracket on the backside of the firewall to windshield frame. If they are not the same between '63 and '64 they are darn close.

You will not get 300 HP out of the 225 without heroics or forced induction. I think my 225 (dual one barrels, decked to 9:1, oversized valves, Oregon Cams 2106, Dutra Duals) is making about 270HP and 250 ft-lbs of torque. Personally I would rather drive this than my built 360 Valiant. They...

I have a 63. I don't think they are different other than the bracket under the dash that the motor mounts to with the relocation due to the firewall change for the V8 in '64. You should be able to look under there and see what is going on.

HF ones suck. Way to brittle. Once catch and they snap. I have drilled out a LOT of welds with Blair cutters..... Use a little oil and drill a pilot hole so they don't skate around and you can move fast. https://www.amazon.com/Blair-11096-Cutter-Set/dp/B002XML5HK/?tag=fabo03-20

I would grab one from Mancini ASAP if you really want one. They were available a number of years ago and when the batch ran out they were out. Took a lot of years before they got another run made.

I use Seymour’s Stainless Steel rattle can.

I media blast them with glass beads. The beads will continue to crush and deteriorate, after a dozen uses it is gone.

Exactly, as I said earlier the cam profile is an OUTPUT of at least half a dozen other decisions you make in the build first!

That is the exact reason. Here is what we have so it gonna be what you need.

He worked for them (and others) testing 1000s of dyno runs and what they suggest typically does not agree with his results.