Recent content by Newbomb Turk

What’s your elevation? fshd is really close to sea level.

The first thing you need to do is physically measure your compression ratio. If you have a detonation issue I suspect it’s probably not from too much compression.

If your cam is on a 108 LSA and you install it on a 108 ICL you will center the overlap triangle or you’ll be in split overlap or you’ll be in straight up. Whatever term you want to use. I certainly wouldn’t advance it.

Ok, figure .034 out. His deep is the recess in the chamber. IIRC at 68cc’s you’ll still be .065-.070 deep. Minus .034 gives you .031-.036 piston to head clearance. Add .039 for the gasket and you are .073-.078 quench. I damn sure wouldn’t use the thicker gasket.

What is the advertised duration numbers and what does the cam card say for an ICL. I’m not a fan of those lifters on a cam that small. How far are the pistons out of the hole?

You have to go in there and delete them individually. I’m sure there is a better way but I don’t know it.

What you have is far different than the aftermarket cookie sheet “shroud”.

Yep. I can’t swing that big grinder for hours on end either.

The question becomes how far can you trim the IFR and not get into idle issues. The T slot as it came from Holley before the era of massive emulsion and other trickeration was narrower and shorter than what we get today. The length and width of that slot controls how much fuel gets through it...

Drain your oil. Put exactly the number of quarts in the engine that the pan calls for. Let it sit for an hour. Pull the dipstick and make the full line where it is on the stick.

Yup. And it may not even take a few hours lol.

This is true IF the T slots are Holley OEM width and length. Almost every single throttle plate that isnt Holley has the T slots too wide and too long. To clean that up you can’t just reduce the IFR. In that case you install T slot restricters. mopowers needs to measure his and see what he...

Look at the pictures very close. In one of them you can see a wide parting line. It’s a steel crank.

You really need W2 shafts. While the oil holes in the shaft are wrong, they are far closer than what an OEM shaft is.

Yup, that is forged.