Recent content by Rapid Robert

there ya go bro. side issues are a major distraction right now. RR

one thing I read from way back is to orient it so the zerk is being compressed rather than pulled apart. keep stress crack from starting I would assume. RR

John thank you & I found it, might be a good read. mopar1.us/band.html then click on band adjustment.

I know you cant believe everything on the 'net but he explained it, it did make good sense. Maybe I can take a pic of the writing & post it, if not, John is 1&1/2 turns good on both of em? EDIT I dont have the skills to post a link to it

Ok 45 lbs it is. I think I will get some good shims with a 3/8 hole & a long enough bolt to go thru the shim & engage the perch. thank guys, much appreciated. RR

very good info. I will get after it, thanks guys. RR

I read an interesting piece on this which said snug both bands (driveshaft wont turn either way) then back off each till the driveshaft will lightly turn (opposite rotation for each band) then loosen another 1/2 turn & lock down the nut. I did this on the band on the side but on the inside band...

this housing has a hole the exact dia of the 3/8 bolt & the height of the bolt matches the thickness of the pads (both even). not sure how the holes in these shims I have got rounded out (came from an old stash) but maybe the ubolts will have enough clamping to keep the shims in place???

these shims are old/worn with the holes oblong that came from an old stash & you got me thinking that I should just get good ones with the lip. where should I go to purchase em?

8&3/4 leaf springs/race app. right now the top nub of the center bolt sticks up maybe 3/8", just enough to engage the perch(s). If I add tapered shims to correct pinion angle the nub would engage the shim but not high enough to engage the perch. will the ubolts have enough clamping to hold it...

OK I will tap em. if they dont free up significantly I will take em apart & reassemble. thanks guys. RR

I just had my driveshaft shortened/balanced. the ujoints in their travel seem way too tight but they told me that is OK, I've seen others that are smooth all the way thru. what do you guys think? & if I need to do something on this? thank you for your time. RR

the good 340 exhaust manifold (drivers side). what is the outlet diameter/years available? thank you for your time. RR EDIT & casting # please

Kim I will do exactly that. thank you again. RR

Good info Kim, much appreciated. the 3/8 I needed that to get some longer ones. right now the jack stands are under the 8&3/4 & on the front subframe(s). the car does appear to be level or real close to it. With cement blocks I have my weight on the seat & 9/10 of a full fuel cell of gas weight...