Recent content by str12-340

So I swapped the bushing the arm connects to in this SKP switch and proceeded to install the switch. To add insult to injury the flasher knob was too big to fit in the notch in the column housing and had to be trimmed down...

scrape the flaking portions well, clean it with BrakeKleen, let dry thoroughly and spot in the problem spots with the same engine paint you used in the first place. Is it really flaking before you even ran the engine? sheesh - who's paint did you use???

Just so you understand what a Street Tunnel Ram is - if you think about the vertical runners on a tunnel ram, stick the four fingers of both hands up in the air palm to palm in that configuration, since it is a Mopar small block pair the fingers of each hand, offset them a bit and then fold the...

Thank you! any chance of a few pictures?

The buckets in my 1970 Dart had a provision in the tracks to move the studs that go through the floor forward, moving the seat backward. It isn't easy as you have to remove the seats, see if there are alternated stud locations in the tracks (mine had 3 or 4), Hold the tracks and then drive the...

The bolts in your pics with the big integral washers hold you exhaust brackets. Even if you reconfigured with a longer bolt they are not sufficient for a seat belt.

The raised 'oval' pieces that hold the metal parts in the right location?

I used industrial velcro as recommended by @4spdragtop. It worked perfectly. If you go to the thread "1968 Dodge Dart GT Sleeping Beauty?" I answered this question for him with step by step pictures. It is post#360 on the 15th page of that thread.

duplicate

I'm helping a friend reassemble a 1969 Barracuda fastback. The interior (yeah that really complicated completely trimmed out folding back seat and 'trunk') was completely disassembled and piled in the trunk. The car came with a complete carpet kit. The thing is complicated enough that it isn't...

bump

If you are going to fix the top, you might consider some ribs on the bottom to strengthen the top. The cast top ain't very thick and it's just cast aluminum with the weight of the carbs,etc. sitting on it too. My system has a CNC milled top from aluminum billet. I got it at the Nats 20 years...

The 'Y' fitting is from an aftermarket source that I don't remember but it is pretty simple (probably from Summit or Jegs). The fittings from the banjo at the carb are an off brand version of the one Edelbrock offers that I found on Summit Racing. The line up from the fuel pump is a stainless...

So in attempt to find a repop that had a wider V that would actually fit the arm, I looked for a unit made by Shee-Mar as suggested by @slantsixdan . In looking at Rock Auto they listed a unit made by Shee-Mar specifically so I ordered it. The part came today and the box listed the source as...

I would try it without dropping the column first. From that side you are looking to release the bushing at the end of the arm that goes to the pivot right in front of the driver. I would try removing the glove box and glove box door and see if you can get to the bushing for the other pivot...