Distributor Rebuild Question

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fastdart69

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I have this 1969 dual point distributor from a 1969 Dart Swinger 340 pn 2875783 (see pics). I am recurving the distributor and installing an FBO plate, however I am not sure how the reluctor and timing plate come out of the distributor. I have the clip out and have tried the two screwdriver method and also attempted to use a puller to remove the reluctor. I don't know if the reluctor and timing plate come off together or separately, it looks like they would come out together. I have watched several youtube videos but they are mostly electronic distributors where the reluctor comes off separately and seemingly pretty easily. I don't want to force this too much and damage the distributor body. Do I need to remove the shaft pin and take the whole shaft out of the distributor to remove the reluctor? I also need points, condenser, rotor and lead distributor wire for this distributor, NOS if possible if anyone can help with that. Thanks in advance for your help!


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It might just be really stuck. The lower shaft pin only holds the collar in place. The little i.d. circular clip holds the T-bar to the shaft so once that's out and you get the the reluctor off the T-bar will slide out. They are two separate parts. The whole shaft assembly should then drop out.

Put the unit into a vice and make sure the shaft can't rotate. Hit the reluctor with some lube like PB Blaster to see if that will loosen it up. Maybe you just need larger screwdrivers to provide better leverage. Just make sure to use even pressure on both sides and try not to gouge anything. You can put rags on the tops of the housing edges if you're afraid to gouge or mar them but you do need a solid surface to pry on.

Good luck.
 
rmchrgr said:
It might just be really stuck. The lower shaft pin only holds the collar in place. The little i.d. circular clip holds the T-bar to the shaft so once that's out and you get the the reluctor off the T-bar will slide out. They are two separate parts. The whole shaft assembly should then drop out.

Put the unit into a vice and make sure the shaft can't rotate. Hit the reluctor with some lube like PB Blaster to see if that will loosen it up. Maybe you just need larger screwdrivers to provide better leverage. Just make sure to use even pressure on both sides and try not to gouge anything. You can put rags on the tops of the housing edges if you're afraid to gouge or mar them but you do need a solid surface to pry on.

Good luck.
Click to expand...
So theoretically something like this (see photo) should be able to pull the reluctor off. I did use some lube (Free All) to see if it would help to loosen the reluctor. I've put quite a bit of pressure on this and it hasn't budged a bit. Any other thoughts?

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Thanks 66fs. I’ve seen it referred to as both. In any case my underlying question is still the same. Does the cam come off with the t-bar from the shaft or is the top part of the shaft (above the collar) integral with them? If so, what is the best way to remove it from the distributor so I can install the FBO plate?
 
fastdart69 said:
Thanks 66fs. I’ve seen it referred to as both. In any case my underlying question is still the same. Does the cam come off with the t-bar from the shaft or is the top part of the shaft (above the collar) integral with them? If so, what is the best way to remove it from the distributor so I can install the FBO plate?
Click to expand...

If you press on the small diameter internal part of the main shaft the cam and advance assembly should come off.
 
I was finally able to pry it off! FYI - here's how it came off. You can see that it's all one piece. Thanks everyone!

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Glad you were able to work it free. My apologies for suggesting the cam and plate were two separate pieces, that was obviously 100% incorrect. The concept is the same though.
 
fastdart69 said:
Thanks 66fs. I’ve seen it referred to as both. In any case my underlying question is still the same. Does the cam come off with the t-bar from the shaft or is the top part of the shaft (above the collar) integral with them? If so, what is the best way to remove it from the distributor so I can install the FBO plate?
Click to expand...
Just because "you've seen this" or "you've heard that" doesn't make it right. I'm not being a nitpicker. It's important to get terminology correct, especially when you're asking for help. The piece is called the distributor points cam. The entire piece with the slots in it is the distributor governor. A reluctor is an electrical device in a distributor that makes an electiral current when it passes by an electromagnet (pickup) inside the distributor. IF you have the small circlip on the top of the distributor governor removed and the governor still will not come off, I don't recommend using a puller. Spray some penetrating oil of some kind down in the hole where the circlip was and twist the governor back and forth and pull while holding the distributor shaft still. They do get stuck from time to time. Using a puller could damage the governor or the distributor cam.
 
If you use the FBO plate with a correct 340 dual point for the purpose of increasing the initial timing, then you can, and should, bend the secondary spring perch out. The secondary spring loop should contact at approximately the same rpm as it does now.

How it works is explained in another thread, but basically the secondary spring contact is based on degrees of advance. If you're going from say 5* initial to 15* initial, then the secondary spring needs to be adjusted the equivalent of 10 crank degrees to be effective.
 
Since you have it apart good time to check the bushings (side play) and if the drive shaft is straight especially the top where the advance cam rides. Also if it needs a new ground strap on the advance plate now is the time to do it. Along with cleaning and re packing the plate bearing since it will be half apart, The Dino grease is prob hardened by now.
 
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