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If you can get a powermaster to clock so that it gives you additional clearance that works but if TTI says use Robmac starter that's probably what you're going to have to do. Do it once ,do it right.

On the link it says Wix Racing filter.

As I said it wont affect the starter header issue but will help the centerlink to pan clearance.

The drop would only help with oil pan clearance on a hard turn. But if the engine sat up higher both the pan and the steering linkage would have more clearance. That wouldnt move the starter in relation to the header tube though. Again Im surprised TTIs arent a better fit here. Early A narrow...

Dropped center link? Early A 273 style?

Powermaster makes clockable starters for Mopars. Im surprised those TTI headers are that close. Maybe something wrong with the mounts or engine placement? What year and body? BTW what size primary tube?

That sucks. Sorry

Ill take it. PM sent

So it appears the difference is max GPM of flow 7 to 9 for 51515 as opposed to 28 GPM for the race filter. And the micron rating is different. The R let's dirt up to 61 microns through as opposed to 21 a third smaller for the street filter. Both bypass at the same psi .

I think different size micron rating and by pass style and thicker case. I believe if it clogs it by passes allowing unfiltered oil through. I think. Can't remember but it made me not run that filter. BTW I run a K&N synthetic media filter as there is no pleated paper to deteriorate.

I think you will really be limited to fat autocross/handling bars if you want new. I have a heavy drivetrain in my drag A body (mega block/steel bell/Lenco) but could only get fat bars. I have a set of used slant bars but Im not sure they'll survive. Again this is drag only.

That is the Wix Racing. Regular ones are 6 bucks on Prime

No spindles?

Just a couple of reminders for you....if you are planning on racing your car faster than 11.8 I think, be aware that you will need to ship your McLeod soft locker assembly with flywheel to them every 2 years for recertification. Im in Massachusetts and it costs me 300 bucks freight round trip...

I got those fittings at Oreallys....the master port to a 3/8-24 so that a 3/16 hard line would screw into them. Like 4 bucks each

A tech inspector at Lebanon Valley Dragway said they wouldn't allow you to run with a plastic OPS line. An AN line is nice too, but sometimes because of the larger inside diameter it often takes a moment for the guage to move.

Keep in mind a self exciting alternator (1 wire) is always live and drawing a small amount of juice. This is the VR) If left alone it will kill your battery without a shut off switch.

Can the flange be drilled out to BBP?

I'd download the wiring diagram and ya fix that fuse link. If you don't have a fit about it drill out the other connector on the inside and pass a nice replacement wire through that bulkhead connector and solder it all together. You eliminate the bulkhead connection there and still protect all...

That's a great warranty and worth the price right there.

You're a good family for taking in a stray. Im sure he will return your love multifold!

A stray we recently adopted. Carlton.

Thank you and a Happy Father's Day to you all as well. Im glad my kids are here today to take me and there mom out to a nice restaurant!

I did the cluster over on the wife's 65 Dart. Electronic IVR I even swapped the gauge faces from a round temp and fuel gauge I had for the square ones In the Dart.

They probably shorted out the instrument voltage limiter. Which possibly took out one more gauge. Vacuum gauge ? Hook up vacuum . Disconnect the battery and pull the cluster. What kind of car?

Can I ask what the application is? Drag car, weekend warrior,work truck, commuter car,wife's Cherokee?

Im thinking you are connecting 2 lines with a brass fitting that has 2 inverted flare seats? They are probably metric . The standard American 3/16 hard line uses a 3/8-24 thread.

3/8-24 is correct. I'd guess your connectors are the wrong thread.

Can I ask what brand they are?

Welcome. Nice car