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Question what is the impact of having a connection directly on the coil?

That switch idea is a killer idea! I verified that it will work with a jumper from vbat and my MSD box lit up! Thanks!!

Oh I like this idea a lot! It’s way easier than a switch replacement! The switch has like 20 hours on it! If it’s bad then its of crappy design/material and can happen again. I do get like 2V maybe a short or ohmic contact??

No power to the fuse box acc. I ran it down to the wire harness of the switch itself at the connector output and it’s isolated. Again I did have it working but something changed.

I am thinking of supplying 12V manually to Ignition #2 from the battery just to confirm function and start the motor. Will having Ignition 1 and Ignition 2 on AT THE SAME TIME BE AN ISSUE?

This is it.

Thanks it’s a 1970 Sport Satellite using an MSD set as shown. It was running but something broke/changed. I lost 12V signal to the MSD (2V) power/battery was good. Same at the VR 2V. Traced and isolated the brown wire out of the ignition 2V. Red incoming feed to the ignition switch was 13V...

After successfully starting and running I lost ignition #2 voltage. All I did was install a new radiator and turn signal switch. Traced (keep in mind this is a B body but I bet it’s almost the sMe as an A?) the lack of voltage all the way to the ignition switch red (source?) where I have bat...

Thanks my application is entirely different. I have a 1970 Sport Satellite bbody. So I ordered the MOP750A. I have a lot of room and an existing electric fan set up. I’ll post here how it goes but I doubt Ilhave much issues that I can’t handle. BTW KKS has not gotten back to me. I think they...

I just fired up my 340 after 4 years of being offline and it went better than I anticipated. At this point I have to replace my aluminum radiator as it’s leaking. So I didn’t keep it running long. I did however notice a lot of smoke and I am guessing I have some header leaks as well as a lot of...

Thanks for the update. I just pulled the trigger on the Cold Case Radiator that Chris recommended. The unit is in stick and should ship tomorrow. Glad you had good luck with yours. I support people who support their products. Cold Case so far is excellent service. KKS must be defunct for now...

I recently pm’d @Ccas hopefully Ill hear back about what Coldcase offers ffor my 1970 Bbody. Really need a solution to my failed radiator. KKS might be out of business.

OK so I guess this is as good a place as any to provide some feedback on the KKS radiators. I am not an expert on radiator design/construction, so any inputs are appreciated. Fitment was excellent. The welds all looked really nice as well as the overall construction. The radiator worked fine...

Ah I got it now! I had to reread your post several times. The key is alignment of the reluctor and pickup alignment. This answers my question fully! It does matter how the body is set up or more precisely how the reluctor and pickup are aligned! If perfectly aligned then what you read on the...

I guess another way to look at what I am asking is this. Seems like most of you want me to put in more initial timing as I indicated I am at 7 degrees. If I was to NOT change the crank position BUT instead rotate and advance the distributor would that not do the same thing? If so the initial...

Thats exactly what I did. I can change to 15° no problem. Just wondering how the body position of the distributor affects what we read on the block or does it just not matter. .

Thanks I am not at all concerned about if its 7° or 10°. What I was asking is….how does the distributor body location/orientation affect the initial actual timing or does it just not matter. If the timing marks indicate 7° on the block/balancer does it matter if the distributor is centered or...

Thanks but what is the timing actually given where the body of the distributor is? Or it doesn’t matter as its say 7 degrees from the starting point regardless of the body position?

Setting up for first start after pulling the distributor for some top end work. I know this is a basic question so I hope you guys will be patient with me. I stabbed the distributor with the timing market about 7° before top dead center. The rotor is pointing to number one and I have it set so...

Final follow up on my top end oiling insufficiency. All good now! Rocket hooked me up with the correct “banannaized” shafts AND I corrected the right passenger side orientation of the notch. And now I can see oil coming from all the rockers. My originals were clear (all orifices and shafts) so...

Yes that’s one of the problems we identified from this build. I have a new set from Rocket and they will be installed correctly. Thanks

Socket fixture on a grinder or just put it on a Bridgeport?

looks spot faced to me… haven’t checked them all out yet.

Im just payin the cards I was dealt….btw those were cup style posted not ball.

PRW is possibly only selling these per unit as replacements. Looks like this 273 set up is getting hard to use.

Thank you. So I just learned that these will not fit. Went to PRW website. These are 7/16-20 for Aluminum rockers and Mopar Steel rockers use is 3/8-24 and I confirmed this by measuring mine. I’ll have to call them to see if they make the 3/8-24. Jegs site didn’t even out they type of thread...

I don’t know the history on this build. This is what I found on the motor when I opened it.

Lastly I noticed what I thought was a stress fracture (along the casting line) from one of those holes but under magnification it was just a casting line with no fracture. So I am using it even though the hole is partially blown.

If so I believe (I could be wrong) these are post processing holes that were used as a pilot hole to drill out the holes in the rockers. I noticed that mine have different sizes as shown. Mine were obviously mixed and matched up as I have both locking and interference ball adj screws.

Piss holes? Do you mean these?