Search results for query: *

Ah I got it now! I had to reread your post several times. The key is alignment of the reluctor and pickup alignment. This answers my question fully! It does matter how the body is set up or more precisely how the reluctor and pickup are aligned! If perfectly aligned then what you read on the...

I guess another way to look at what I am asking is this. Seems like most of you want me to put in more initial timing as I indicated I am at 7 degrees. If I was to NOT change the crank position BUT instead rotate and advance the distributor would that not do the same thing? If so the initial...

Thats exactly what I did. I can change to 15° no problem. Just wondering how the body position of the distributor affects what we read on the block or does it just not matter. .

Thanks I am not at all concerned about if its 7° or 10°. What I was asking is….how does the distributor body location/orientation affect the initial actual timing or does it just not matter. If the timing marks indicate 7° on the block/balancer does it matter if the distributor is centered or...

Thanks but what is the timing actually given where the body of the distributor is? Or it doesn’t matter as its say 7 degrees from the starting point regardless of the body position?

Setting up for first start after pulling the distributor for some top end work. I know this is a basic question so I hope you guys will be patient with me. I stabbed the distributor with the timing market about 7° before top dead center. The rotor is pointing to number one and I have it set so...

Final follow up on my top end oiling insufficiency. All good now! Rocket hooked me up with the correct “banannaized” shafts AND I corrected the right passenger side orientation of the notch. And now I can see oil coming from all the rockers. My originals were clear (all orifices and shafts) so...

Yes that’s one of the problems we identified from this build. I have a new set from Rocket and they will be installed correctly. Thanks

Socket fixture on a grinder or just put it on a Bridgeport?

looks spot faced to me… haven’t checked them all out yet.

Im just payin the cards I was dealt….btw those were cup style posted not ball.

PRW is possibly only selling these per unit as replacements. Looks like this 273 set up is getting hard to use.

Thank you. So I just learned that these will not fit. Went to PRW website. These are 7/16-20 for Aluminum rockers and Mopar Steel rockers use is 3/8-24 and I confirmed this by measuring mine. I’ll have to call them to see if they make the 3/8-24. Jegs site didn’t even out they type of thread...

I don’t know the history on this build. This is what I found on the motor when I opened it.

Lastly I noticed what I thought was a stress fracture (along the casting line) from one of those holes but under magnification it was just a casting line with no fracture. So I am using it even though the hole is partially blown.

If so I believe (I could be wrong) these are post processing holes that were used as a pilot hole to drill out the holes in the rockers. I noticed that mine have different sizes as shown. Mine were obviously mixed and matched up as I have both locking and interference ball adj screws.

Piss holes? Do you mean these?

I knew A guy once whose dog crapped on the carpet all the time. Every time he did the owner rubbed his face in it. But the dog kept shitting on the carpet anyway. Needless to say his carpet was really fuggly….. just sayin…

My bad I didn’t see that in your response it wasn’t clear to me. “There are two holes in the rockers. The lower hole on the backside of the rocker squirts oil in to the pushrod cup.”

Thanks Pierre! Yes I am doing this methodically. The shafts look great. I removed the caps and cleaned them throughly in kerosene with bore brushes. Used fine sandpaper as well. The caps didn’t fit but I found some 5/8 freeze plugs that did Dorman555-011 that right. Thanks so much for your help...

Welp mine wasn’t! Thats the fing point. I wasn’t getting crapola out of my top end when hand priming at 60psi. SOMETHING was wrong and I needed to understand what. I was in a debugging mode trying to understand how the system worked.

No they were clean. Thanks to Rocket I now am preparing these!

I haven’t read past this post as I have been busy. BUT I have to break it to ya you’re wrong here. I just figured out how the oil path ACTUALLY works. It’s because I was curious. Curiosity like what drove Richard Fineman to solve the Shuttle failures root cause. As can be easily seen by my...

Thanks. Thought of heading to Napa but they are closed. A good parts store/machine shop/ repair facility are getting harder and harder to find. They are disappearing faster than our dragstrips. I found these parts in stock and they work well. So YOU GUYS DONT HAVE to be waste your time sorting...

Guy looks like the primary source of Mopar SB rocker arm shaft end cap freeze plugs are no longer being produced. Mancini and Chrysler dealers are all out. I found a working solution that I wanted to share with you all. It’s a 5/8 cap with roughly a .235” height. Can get anywhere as they are a...

Yup solid lifters guys.

Interesting thanks guys.

so I have read how to set solid lifter valve lash hot. But on an initial set up how to you set the lash cold before the first fire to get them close? Is it the same method as hot then tweak them in after the engine gets to operating temp?

Question: How does the oiling of the pushrod ball stud work on the 273 rocker arms? I have inspected mine and don’t see any path that the oil can get through. There is a hole in the rocker arm yes. But the adjuster has some sort of interference fit with the adjuster screw. There is no channel...

My curiosity isn’t being bullheaded. It’s how I learn. Without curiosity there is no knowledge…..