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That red looks great on that pickup. Sweet ride man. $80/hr seems right for Maaco today.

Their top of the line B.C. CC special is about 3,800. That’s just for the prep and paint. Not sure what their shop rate is for series body repair.

I plan to strip the car before taking it in. Anything to make it easier for them. I’ve seen good Maaco & Mexico paint jobs. Hoping to get decent work from both.

Agreed. I only decided to go with this guy as I’ve personally seen his work. Both of my neighbor’s vehicles (which he painted) looked great at about 5 years old.

We haven’t discussed the paint brand yet. I think he's more focused on the body work at the moment. This isn’t a cheap TJ option so, I’m hopeful everything turns out well. I’ve seen this gentlemen’s previous work and it looked great. Fingers crossed.

I decided to conduct an experiment. Hate me if you will but, I’ve been curious about both options and wanted to give them a shot. Have any of you gone these routes? Maaco VS Mexico: The Hunt for AFFORDABLE Paint & Body Work - Part 1

Finished off the budget build with a set of Speedmaster (a.k.a. Procomp) 1.6 roller rockers. For the the price, they appear to be well worth it. Looking forward to the first few thousand miles to see how these perform and wear. Quality or JUNK? Installing Speedmaster 1.6 Rocker Arms on a Big...

I thought you did an amazing job with that 470 build you shared awhile back. In fact, that build is what inspired me to get the 400 in the first place .

The offset grind was about $300. The new cranks I found were near $1200. I also had the steel crank sitting on the shelf from a ‘68 383 that I ended up selling. Plus, like RAMM mentioned, I wanted to do something different by targeting big(ish) cubes with a small block feel. I regretted stroking...

That’s what I was expecting as well. My target was 0.022 in the hole.

After seeing it in the hole that much, my first thought was that the offset grind either wasn’t offset enough or not at all. I then measured the stroke with the short block still together. Came in right at 3.54. Idk maybe I was reading it wrong. It’s been a few months.

Made a mistake with my early measurements but, I was able to put together the top end in a way to mitigate some of it. I could’ve torn it back down to correct it however, I think the combo, as is, will work great in the project I’m leaning towards installing it in. BUDGET 426 Stroker Gets a...

Still workin on it. Welding up an oil pan right new before reassembling the v10. I’ve also got to rework the coolant system. It’s the little things that take so much time.

I’m using off the shelf rods and pistons with my 426 combo.

Finally got the short block assembled! DIY Mopar 426 STROKER - FULL Short Block Assembly

I’m trying to score a set of 915 heads which, is difficult to do here in CA. Ideally, I’ve got about $800 max to throw at the heads. New valves and maybe even valve seats would be priority if budget allowed.

I’m using Icon pistons with a 1.48 compression height and Scat 6.70” rods. Turned the rod journals down to 2.2”

Not necessarily after fit. The lighter weight is a plus but, I’m mainly after engine characteristics. I LOVE the free spinning nature of the 340. I’m hoping to achieve the same characteristics with extra cubes for a bigger punch

With the core shift issues prevalent in the 400s, I really wanted to limit it to .03-ish. I did have the block sonic checked as I was curious how much I could go. Anymore than .04 over and I would’ve needed to sleeve cylinder #4 for a 500hp + build.

The $1600 includes the rings and bearings. I do still need to balance the crank which is gona cost me another $125. I’m aim for a 5k overall budget for the long block. Still not sure what I’m going to do for heads but, I’m leaning towards some 915s or worked 452s. I doubt I could squeeze in...

Same stroke. Reason for the 383 crank is to get a forged unit. When the rod journals are offset ground it increases the stroke from 3.38 to 3.545. Rod journals are now 2.2”

Chevy size, yup. I’ve gone big stroke in the past and it didn’t really meet expectations. Wanting to try something different.

So the rotating assembly has cost me $1600. It’s half the cost of a 440 source stroker kit. In addition to gaining 26 cubes, it also maintains a large over-square configuration. I’m hoping this adds to the high revving nature I’m planning/aiming for.

Can’t seem to find anything on the web about one of these. Any of you build one? Taking this opportunity to test out a long rod ratio. From my assessment, it seems like a reliable combo that would love to rev. What do you think? Doing this as a budget build for a YouTube challenge. -offset...

27 Year Old VIPER Crate Engine Teardown - Operation Venomous Fish

Dealerships would mistakenly order an entire crate engine in 1996 due to the part number being 1 digit different than the viper red touch up paint haha

Finally opened up the V10. Those intake ports are MASSIVE! Dodge Viper Intake Manifold Removal

Right?!?! I’m really happy with it. Now I’ve just got to get that v10 installed!

Decided to call in some help on the firewall and trans tunnel. Coming along GREAT!