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I worked at a veterinarian's office while I was in high school. Are you sure you really want to know???

It was, but it was pretty gratifying to do (even if there may have been a swear word or two thrown in the car's direction) and I learned a bit along the way. I've not been able to test it yet; I literally just finished it a couple of hours ago. I *might* be able to get it out tomorrow, but...

Lord, if that was but the only of my life's failures... Pics to come. Please hold.

Afternoon all, I've finally managed to get the fuel lines replaced with solid stainless. Took a while, and there was a bit of waste, but I now have SS lines, 6AN connections, and the lines are double- and in some places triple-insulated with heat shield (shield over the SS lines, and then...

I totally agree with you, and that's also part of the reason I decided to put this on hold while I finish up some other things with the car. At 20 -25mph it has no problems breaking loose if you hammer it in 1st gear (maybe even a little faster than that). Believe it or not, I was looking at...

Agreed, and the car already has a bar in it! Glad you asked though, because that really does make a difference. This car is mostly street, shows, that kind of thing. It may see the strip every blue moon or so. To be honest, I've been planning out a 500+ hp car for a while, but I'm now kind...

Gotcha. Well, if nothing else I can probably sell what's coming out of it and do an offset. If I were to take it in a whole different direction I'd probably look for a 383 block and stuff that in there. Technically they were only available in the Formula S package for 1967, but hey, it's...

The 556 hp (crank) was surprisingly high to me; at 15% loss that's 467 at the tire. 434 at the tire comes out to about 510 hp, which I think is obtainable with this setup though I'm admittedly basing that solely on magazine articles and dyno test videos.

I'm sorry - sell the motor? Or the internals? Finding a good 360 block isn't that easy these days.

Thanks. I was leaning towards changing it out to begin with.

Thanks Tom. I just looked over your link. I'll let you know if I decide to change them out.

Yeah, crank is cast, everything else is forged. The 500+ hp numbers I gave on my initial post is at 6800 rpm so even though the specs are at 500hp/700hp depending on the source, it makes me a little nervous. What kind of power are you making? I ran a couple of different cams through the...

That was my thought as well, though I've found two different HP numbers for that assembly: one says good up to 500 HP (Summit), the other says good up to 700 HP (CNC Motorsports). Ironically the Eagle website doesn't give any specs. :rolleyes: Current compression is 10.5:1, I use 93 octane...

Hello all, I have another thread going about my 408 getting extremely hot and I'm working on that issue, but in the meantime I'm considering doing a major upgrade to the motor to hit 500+ hp and am hoping to get some advice from builders. The motor is a 408, currently hits 408 hp at 4500 rpm...

I’m sorry if I read more into your post than was there. It was a long travel day, and one that I wasn’t excited to make in the first place. Certainly not trying to take it out on anyone. Car was wired with a Mopar-specific harness. I’m very confident in it.

Well sirs (making an assumption there but would love to know if I’m talking with any ma’am’s out there) I answered this previously but will do so again: it was recommended by a builder and the car has been rewired nose to tail with all new wiring, including fuse boxes. So I’m not worried about...

Good evening all, here's my update. Unfortunately, the parts that I was waiting for didn't fit, so I had to reorder. Very, very frustrating, but gave me an opportunity to step back and do some reevaluation. I'm in the middle of swapping from braided SS lines to solid lines at the...

I'm not sure why folks are assuming I'm going at this as "this might be an issue, replace"; I'm going at this on a "do research, ask questions, get feedback, start working on the things that would be beneficial even if it's not the exact problem, test, continue". If fuel is boiling, that's a...

I appreciate the advice but I’m really not. I’m focused on the fuel issue, so I’ve put the spacer in and am redoing fuel lines. When I started it the day before yesterday I checked the fuel level in the carb via the sight glass (was where it should be). I’m waiting for a part (arrives today) so...

Ok. I kind of figured if it’s regulated and wiring was updated it wouldn’t matter so much.

** Disregard about the voltage regulator. It looks like the new one is internally regulated while the old one is externally regulated. Still would like input on the amperage though. ** Hello again. I’ve been thinking about the alternator; there was a comment that the 95a was far too much. I...

Hello everyone, just wanted to give you some progress notes. I’ve installed the .25” spacer, and unfortunately it didn’t resolve the issue. I was supposed to be traveling for work this week but my meetings got rescheduled to next week, so trying to get things done now. I’ve got the top half of...

OK folks, I think I might be closing in. I looked at the old alternator and the only numbers/identification i can find on it are: USA UV INA BCH 06604 The letters are the same on the new one, with the exception of an "X" instead of "UV". The BCH 06604 is just the bearing, but everything I...

I’m with you- I don’t think it’s a direct engine heat issue anymore either. I’m going to look at the wires on the alt again. The ground post on the alt is very close to the block if I remember correctly; I thought that when I installed it. I’ll check those more closely.

100% agree. Working on that very thing.

I totally agree. But the problem is that while it never ran particularly “cool” before, it also never stalled out on me before. So while making sure fuel is cooler via insulation and spacer is beneficial, getting high performance coolant will reduce engine temps and also beneficial, these things...

:lol: Probably a better experience… Unfortunately there’s no crosswalk for Powermaster alts, so I basically looked to see what the closest match was - and also asked a builder what he would recommend. He went with the PM 95a square back. So here’s my question: even if it produces more heat...

Have headers, yes, but same headers that have been on it for a very long time. Here are the two changes to the car in the past 2 years: New Powermaster 95 amp alternator (old one wasn’t charging, replaced about 3 weeks ago) .25” wood spacer under carb (done yesterday) Absolutely nothing else...