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The rooster combs are different between early and late trans. Add the A & A kit to your 68 valvebody.

That "I will just manually shift it" has been what I've heard so many times, when someone has no kickdown or screwed up kickdown linkage. I've tried to help so many people like that, a lot accept the help, others just say-I just manually shift it. You tell them their trans won't last long-they...

I highly recommend it. It will be one of the best things that you do for yourself. It makes it so much more enjoyable to drive around town and such.

I have a NOS 340 converter I will sell, but it's buried out in my cluttered garage and I won't be able find and dig it out till spring. Sorry.

I would have the one that you have rebuilt. We have a local shop here in Lincoln that rebuilds them.

73 up B body, C body, and E body kickdown linkages are the one pc rod system. They will NOT work on an A body. You need the 3 pc. Bellcrank linkage.

You need a 3500# Borg & Beck:rofl: Have to build them left leg muscles up in your old age. I found a 3200# Schiefer B&B that I put in my 68 GTS, Wiped out the cam on getting it running, so I never got to drive it. It was a brute though. I had to many Chevy friends that had the diaphragm PPs...

I didn't realize that the aftermarket had the seals with the dust seal. I've seen so many rebuilt transmissions that just have a single lip seal.

Get an original seal with the dust cover, from a Chrysler dealer. It's the only one to use. I'll look up the part number tomorrow if needed. They are not cheap but worth it. When you get one, the dust boot part has a small hole, this hole goes to the bottom when installing.

The older we get, the heavier them pumpkins get!

I run 2.76's in everything I drive. My 71 Polara in my avatar, my surviver 67 Dart 270 and soon in my 69 Coronet R/T. I'm an old guy, I drive mostly on rural roads and interstates. To many people say highway driving. Highway and Interstate driving are two completely different things. To me...

The Ford additive is more readily available that the Mopar stuff is. They look and smell exactly the same to me. And i think the Ford is a little bit cheaper.

The 360 999's part numbers are as follows: 74-75-PK3681844, 76-77-PK4028465, 78 NON LU- PK4028878, 78 LU-PK4028815, 78 LU-PK4058111, 79 LU-PK4130515 and 79 LU-PK4130645. These are all 360 only 999's. These part numbers were taken from the OLD Direct Connection Bible. After 79 I don't know.

When introduced in 1974 behind the 360 2 bbl, the 999 till 1978 were non lockup. Starting in 1978 it came both ways LU and non-LU.. The low gear came along in the early to mid 80's and again, they didn't all get the low gears. That's what I know.

AMK has the correct u bolts in 2 different lengths. Most of the Mopars that I ever worked on had the flattened gripper u bolts. Hell, I have a couple 38 Plymouths and they used that flat u bolts way back in 1938-earlier even I think. I've seen the housing tubes pinched by round u bolts.

318-2bbl. A few places sell the 340 bracket without the pivot pin. You'll have to fabricate the rest. It's not hard if you have some more linkages to cut up and use for parts.

I didn't know there was a short and a long shaft 904?

There is nothing as beautiful as a NOS Thermoquad! :lol:

I'll get out tomorrow and find a couple and try to get a picture posted unless someone beats me to it.

I see part of your problem-the kickdown lever that you have on the trans is for the 1 pc rod system. That is longer than the one you need. So in reality the ratio is off by quite a bit. The short levers are for the 3 pc bellcrank system and the long levers, like yours is for the 1 pc rod system...

Look like flywheel bolts.

The passenger should have the axle adjuster if you are not using Green bearings. If no Green bearings, put the driver side axle in first and torque the 5 nuts down. Then install the pass side axle-back the adjuster out if you haven't and then adjust.

You said freway driving, that means 2.76. My 67 Dart 273 2bbl 2.71 gears, 225-70-15 rear tires. Get 20-21 mpg. A big help would be the A&A Transmission part throttle kickdown kit, it helps drivability a bunch. .

i have the part numbers from those 5 year 999'2. In 78 was the first year for lockup, so they came either way that year. And after that I don't know.

I have 4 999's from 74-78 Cordoba's and Magnums, and they all have the PK numbers on them. Sometimes they didn't get the stamping very deep, like can't see it at all.

I can look it up later, I'm on my way out the door.

Just have to figure out the centerline of your axles to the centerline of the U joint, and have your shaft shortened that amount of the difference. If the 8 3/4 has the big yoke you'll have to get a conversion u-joint.

There is a place called Speedometer Cables USA in Colorado, phone 888-907-6506 that will custom make a cable to your spec. Reasonable to. I found a 1975 NOS Cruise Control package for an A body for my 67 Dart, so the cable from the speedo to the CC servo had the 68 and up slip plastic speedo...

HGM Electronics has the Compushift unit that controls everything. A couple years ago, they were around 375.00. Then they became unavailable, now, they are available again for a price of over 700.00.

I have a neat little story concerning A&A if anyone is interested. Quite a few years ago I went to a guys Demo Derby auction. He was getting a divorce and needed to liquidate all of his stuff. This was back when the Derby guys were still using big Chryslers. It was mostly Mopar stuff. There...