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Yup, up to 1974 when they changed to the casting with the A.I.R. provision. The open chamber heads starting in 1968 will reduce the compression ratio a bit though. '66 and '67 920 castings were closed chamber.

Just as well. You're better off with a double roller chain anyway.

Chances are a stock choke would not be a straight bolt-on anyway. I'd just get carb with an electric choke would be my recommendation.

If you're using the '64-6 LH exhaust manifold, using a later "smog" head would require extra clearance at the left rear (#7) exhaust port to keep from breaking the manifold. Best done by a thicker exhaust manifold gasket rather than grinding on the head. Best just to get the correct head.

Regardless if they're original or not, replace those steel plugs with brass ones so you never have to worry about them rusting out.

If it's from a truck, you're going to need lots of conversion parts to put it into a car. Pan, Pickup, mounts, exhaust, etc.....

The '66 factory service manual doesn't mention oiling any of the head or bearing cap bolts.

I always oil them, and then blow them off with compressed air to remove any excess.

The early cam bolts (like our 273's) use a 1" long Highland grade 8 bolt for the cam washer, and no lock or flat washer is used with it. The bolt head has the castleated look to it with the H in the middle. Stock oil pump bolts are 1 1/2" long and are grade 8 also.

Camshaft bolt may be the middle one of the three in photo #3. I don't see any obvious oil pump bolts. Correct on the fuel pump, oil pan, intake, and valve cover bolts. Exhaust will depend on the year, as some use those sleeve bolts, and there should be some nuts with the cone washers for the end...

A 340 crank and rods will fit and work, but, overkill IMO unless you're trying to build a killer drag motor for some reason. Even then, I'd go with a billet crank and light weight rods for that application. Maybe if you were running some sort of special class car it would justify the expense...

Not in '69 it isn't. Cast crank just like the 318 that year.

When the engine is running with the radiator cap off, you'll see real foamy coolant

I'm not saying it's common. Like I said, I only ran across it 4 times. The first time was a head scratcher for sure as I didn't think it was possible either. The next 3 with same symptoms were easier to diagnose. It must have been the perfect storm of components that just wouldn't work right...

I have seen some cavitation problems with mismatched cooling components also. Cavitation can cause overheating too.

Well, installing a thermostat and doing nothing else cured them, so, that's the only thing I can conclude. This happened to 4 different vehicles that came to my repair shop years ago.

I've run across other makes and models that would overheat if the thermostat was removed. The flow was just too fast without one. Add a small water pump pulley and large crank pulley with an non-A/C water pump and you can get cavitation and way too much flow.

Oh, and I'd run the vacuum advance on the street, even if you need to back off the initial advance to 10 BTDC to keep it from pinging. You may want to verify that the timing mark is correct on the balancer too. Use a piston stop to make sure it's accurate.

You need to figure out if it's an air flow or water flow issue. If you cruise at 50MPH and it overheats, it's not a fan or shroud problem, and probably not even an air flow problem at all, unless something up front is blocking the air. Water flow can be a bit more tricky. It needs to flow at a...

When does it overheat? On the highway at speed? Slow in traffic? Idling? Just steady rise in temp no matter what?

It will depend on the year of the block castings involved. If the blocks have 4 engine mount bracket bosses, they should interchange without a problem. If some or both have three, sometimes they're a different three, so tabs have to be added to swap the brackets from block to block.

Pull the drive, hook up a good live oil pressure gauge, run a priming rod with a drill and see what you have for pressure now.

Do you still have 80lbs pressure cold?

If it broke the distributor/oil pump drive, you would have no oil pressure at all.

Not with the oil pressure.

As PRH mentioned, a bad or noisy lifter isn't going to result in low oil pressure. It's the other way around. I suspect you have a bad bearing or too much clearance in one or more of them. Is this a fresh build?

He just needs to decide which balancer to go with. A neutral one for an internally balanced engine, or one for an externally balanced 360.

Yeah, pulling the rotating assembly out for a re-balance is not fun, but, sometimes that's the only way to get rid of the vibration.

Does it vibrate just sitting still in Park/Neutral and rev'd up? Only while driving down the road? What speed? What RPM?

That's one ugly looking balancer. The add-on weight doesn't even look like it's mounted straight. Who knows if getting a stock replacement will help any or not, should the engine have a custom balance job of some sort.