Search results for query: *

If after tightening those three screws it's still loose, remove that steel plate and squeeze it a tiny bit in a vice to tighten up that socket.

Pulling a '65 column shift automatic column is a lot more work than other years, because of the shift cables.

That might be the set screw type that year.

I find a pickle fork can sometimes help get a stubborn coupler off the input shaft.

'62-72 A, B, and E body power steering gears will interchange. Sometimes the control valve and/or fittings will need to be swapped however.

Yeah, you probably broke the plastic shear pins. Not a big deal. Just pull the inner shaft back out where it belongs and call it good.

Firm Feel can rebuild your box and give you better road feel at the same time. '72 and older A,B, and E bodies came stock with the small sector shaft. C bodies and the all '73-up models came with the large sector shaft.

I think you'd have to remove the exhaust manifold to do that.

That's automatic! It will start by pulling off the first hose. :lol:

Since you have to pull those torsion bars anyway, do yourself a favor and get some stiffer ones. Add a sway bar and the car will handle SO much better.

Disconnect the battery first. I'd pull the starter too. Doesn't take long and gives you more room to wangle that steering gear around.

Keep in mind that if the link disconnected at the RH pivot, that the link will still move back and forth when you turn the wipers on, possibly sawing through wiring or hoses. It might even jam breaking something else.

If you have A/C, you're in for more of a project than non-A/C. If the arms are still attached at least to one end, take some photos of how they're attached, so, you get them back the same way. Having to do it all over again because you got a link backwards is a real bummer. Pull the entire wiper...

Steering column has to come back far enough for the coupler to slide off the input shaft of the steering gear. I like the 16:1 box myself....for the open road. Not so great for slow turns or parking. The 24:1 box is just too much understeer for my taste. You could always convert to P/S of...

You need to get the camber set right regardless of how much caster you end up with. Just get as much caster as you're able with the camber within specs. Otherwise, I suggest getting the offset upper bushings to get more caster. Spacing the lower ball joint out would be a last resort IMO.

If you're replacing the upper control arm along with the lower ball joint and knuckle assembly, disconnect the brake line and cap it, pop off the tie rod from the lower ball joint by loosening the nut to where you can turn it with your fingers, spraying penetrating oil around the stud, and then...

Yes

The column mounting to the dash allows a bit of movement if you haven't already tried that, but, 1/2" measurement wouldn't bother me at all. You just don't want the shaft bottomed out, or, at the top where it might bind on the pins.

Looks like both will work. You may have to trim the plastic extension over by the horn contact, but, other than that it looks correct. Both look to have the lane change feature too.

How about a photo of both switches?

What's incorrect about the lowers? if it's just the bolt size, you can always drill them out to the disc brake size bolt.

The lower control arms went through many number changes in the '62-72 years. The older factory manuals don't even list a difference between the sway bar type and non-sway bar type. Maybe all the replacements had the sway bar bracket? The '63 FSM lists them as 2071468-9. This became 2071642-3 up...

There are actually even more than that if you count appearance differences. For instance, the '65-6 LCA's with sway bar have a slightly different bracket....one with an extra washer looking flange for the sway bar bushing. There are also different bumper plates through the years. Some are...

The 9" brakes grease cap is unique to those. Look for some used ones.

Nope.

I NEVER preload wheel bearings. Hand tighten the spindle nut only. You can tighten the nut SLIGHTLY more if you're really close to getting the cotter pin in, but, that's it. I've been doing that for over 50 years now and have never had to replace a wheel bearing on any of my dozens of vehicles...

You can get a small press to do the job. It looks like a puller, and hooks onto the drag link and lower ball joint arm. Turn the bolt and it presses the tie rod stud out. You can also smack those parts with a hammer to break them loose too. You need to keep the nut on the threads to keep from...

Yup, next time, use the proper tool to break the tie rod ends loose so you don't damage the boots.

I like General Spring also.

So, you were originally going to use the old P/S column as is, but, had to cut the coupler to remove the column and remove the steering gear? Now, you just want to replace the coupler, install a manual steering gear, and use an adaptor to take up the length difference? If so, why not just...